Vaughn Dell and Linda Morice, the inventive couple behind Tasmanian boutique label Sinapius, describe themselves as wine growers, rather than winemakers. Their wines are close planted, dry grown and hand picked on their exposed site at Pipers Brook. This is 100% estate grown pinot from low-yielding 22-year-old vines made with minimalist winemaking intervention; 80% whole berries, 20% whole bunches, wild yeast fermentation for 21 days and matured in 30% new French oak barriques for 12 months, then a further three months blended in tank prior to bottling to allow for natural clarification and integration. Think black and red fruits, herbal notes, deli counter characters and natural acidity, on a wine that finishes soft and sweet with plenty of textural impact. Well worth tracking down. $55. www.sinapius.com.au.
Sam Scott is probably best-known for his impressive range of Italian varietals under the La Prova label, but the Adelaide Hills winemaker also produces some classic cool-climate wines under his Scott label. This chardonnay, made using fruit from the chilly Piccadilly Valley, is absolutely outstanding. It is thoroughly modern, tight and focused, fruit-driven with citrus and stone fruit notes co-existing happily alongside each other. There is some bright acid backbone and an overall elegance that makes this a pleasure to drink. The fruit is hand-picked, chilled overnight and then whole-bunch pressed directly to old French oak barriques, where it undergoes natural fermentation. It undergoes partial malo but no lees stirring. Clean, crisp, intense and delicious. Pair with roast pork and crackling. $45. www.scottwines.com.au.
There's a new look to Taylor's value-for-money Promised Lange range - and a newcomer, as well; a youthful pinot noir that is a downright ridiculous bargain. If you can find a better pinot than this at the same price you should snap it up - but I'm pretty sure you won't. A friend found it on special for $10 a bottle the other day; you should be chewing the bottle shop manager's arm off to take your money if you can match that. For a start, you don't find many pinots with this kind of varietal character for under $20. It is a blend of fruit from several regions of South Australia, and granted, it is not one for the cellar. But is lifted, vibrant, light bodied and a whole lot of fun; juicy, fleshy and very drinkable with or without food. La Cicciolina. Highly recommended. $14. www.taylorswines.com.au.
