It has only taken a few years for Yarra Valley upstart Levantine Hill to build a formidable reputation for quality, with winemaker Paul Bridgeman crafting a range of wines that are noteworthy for impressive personalities and impeccable balance. This is a perfect dinner party choice; a cool-climate syrah with serious panache and pizzazz that has swept up several show awards already. It has medium-bodied style with plummy fruit characters married to some beguiling spice characters and impressive structure. Plush, with impressive length, this demands to be paired with food; perhaps a traditional roast lamb. I'll give this one 97/100. You can confidently cellar it, should you wish to, but it is drinking beautifully right now. $80. www.levantinehill.com.au/