Wine of the Week

Crittenden Estate Los Hermanos 2011 Saludo al Txakoli

2012-01-22T14:32:00.004+11:00

Rollo and Zoe Crittenden from Crittenden Estate are having a lot of fun with their range of Los Hermanos "The Siblings" wines that focus on the various styles of the Iberian Peninsula. Made from petit manseng grapes grown in the high country of the King Valley in Victoria, this wine doffs its cap to the Txakoli wines of the Spanish Basque region, which are often enjoyed late at night with snacks known as "pintxos". This is a very different style for Australian drinkers, a spritzy but savoury dryish white that is a beautiful food match with anything from gazpacho to anchovies. It's also a great lunchtime wine with just 11.5% alcohol. Try it with tapas. $25. www.crittendenwines.com.au.

Bay of Fires 2010 Pinot Noir

2012-01-15T19:22:00.003+11:00

It is easy to see why this pinot noir from the Tamar Valley in Tasmania does so well in wine shows. It's a beautifully put together wine, aromatic, without a hair out of place - the Barbie doll of pinots, certain to be admired on all occasions. It's a wine with both poise and elegance, using top-notch fruit from around the state. Whole bunch pressing has added complexity and oak integration is spot on. You'll find sweet red berry fruit characters and dark cherry on the palate, some intriguing spice notes and some supple tannins. I just wish it had ruffled its hair a little, but that is nitpicking given the quality and drinkability. $40. www.bayoffireswines.com.au.

Domaine Begude 2010 Terroir 11300 Chardonnay

2012-01-06T11:07:00.004+11:00

Here is a wine for lovers of Chablis who cannot always afford their passion. Made by James and Katherine Kinglake in the beautiful Aude Valley between Carcassonne and Limoux, it has all the steely minerality you would associate with Chablis, along with crisp citrus, some honeyed stone fruit and great length. The award-winning vineyard has been organically farmed for the last 30 years and wine has been produced on the estate since the 16th century. The name reflects the local postcode. None of which would mean a jot if the wine wasn't so darn good. I love the intensity, the texture, the structure, the brightness and the fact it is just so refreshing. Just lovely. $27. Imported by Marcus Gniel from Ce Soir Wines. www.cesoirwine.com.

Greywacke 2011 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

2011-12-31T17:22:00.003+11:00

This is a ripping Marlborough sauvignon blanc with terrific complexity and intensity. If the name Grewacke is unfamiliar, it is the new label of former Cloudy Bay winemaker Kevin Judd, whose wines are always just a little bit more interesting. This recent release has already received high praise from Jancis Robinson, the high priestess of wine writing, who said she "can't remember a Marlboro SB impressing me more." That's well-deserved acclaim for a wine that is a melifluous assemblage of flavours, ranging from gentle fruit salad to assertive minerality and deliciously zesty, crunchy citrus acidity. A small portion of the fruit was fermented in old French oak barriques to add texture and interest to a beautifully poised wine - a vinous ballerina. $26. www.greywacke.com.

Domaine Chandon 2008 Blanc de Blancs

2011-12-25T21:33:00.002+11:00

This is a very classy sparkler and a perfect choice for New Year's Eve festivities; a classic méthode traditionnelle wine put together from fruit grown in cool-climate vineyards across the country, including the Yarra Valley, Strathbogie Ranges, Macedon, Adelaide Hills, King Valley and Tasmania. Made from 100 per cent chardonnay, this is a great choice for those who like their bubblies with finesse (it would almost certainly appeal to lovers of Billecart-Salmon). Lemon and citrus notes star in a beautifully vibrant young wine from a very good vintage that is floral and boasts zesty acidity on the finish. A delightful aperitif with terrific balance and structure.$40.

Geoff Merrill 2011 McLaren Vale Grenache Rosé

2011-12-18T16:42:00.005+11:00

Geoff Merrill has been making wine for over three decades and sometimes his "out there" personality and knack for marketing serve to obsure the fact that he is also seriously talented in the winery. While Merrill is best known for his voluptuous, age-worthy reds, he shows a deft touch with this rosé, an excellent choice for summer drinking. It's a vibrant pink wine that hits all the right notes with lively cherry and raspberry characters on an attractive fruity palate. It has 14% alcohol but carries it well. Made from bush vine fruit, the wine also has some spicy/savoury notes and finishes long and dry with some cracking acidity. Chill, serve, enjoy. $20. www.geoffmerrillwines.com.au.

Hesketh 2010 Perfect Stranger Krems Gruner Veltliner

2011-12-12T10:30:00.000+11:00

The Austrian grape variety gruner veltliner is becoming increasingly popular in Australia with producers including Lark Hill, Hahndorf Hill and Stoney Rise all making excellent examples. This wine, however, is the real deal; a collaboration between Austrian winemaker Bert Salomon, whose family have been making wines in Kremstal since 1792, and Australian Jonathon Hesketh, a negociant who has an impressive range. I really enjoyed the spicy poached pear notes of this wine - and the delightful bright acidity. This new release is aromatic, dry, food-friendly and a great choice for summer drinking. It's also surprisingly affordable. $26. www.heskethwinecompany.com.au.

Toscar 2009 Monastrell

2011-12-03T16:09:00.004+11:00

Wow! I tasted this impressive Spanish import blind and mentally priced it at around $30+. It was a rather pleasant surprise, then, to find it actually sells for $15-16. Made by Salvador Poveda in the Alicante region from the grape we call mourvedre but the Spanish call monastrell, the fruit was dry grown and organically treated. The wine has delightful sweet/sour impact on the palate. It's quite a rich, savoury offering with serious tannin structure, but weighs in at just 13.5% alcohol. I enjoyed the combination of sweet dark cherry and black plum fruit with delicatessen and balsamic notes. Full of interest and with a real sense of place, it is imported by Marcus Kniel of Ce Soir Wines. Phone him on 0447 772 387. $16. www.cesoirwine.com.

Eldridge Estate 2011 PTG

2011-11-25T17:28:00.003+11:00

David Lloyd from Eldridge Estate on the Mornington Peninsula is passionate about both pinot noir and the Beaujolais grape gamay, so it makes total sense for him to have put together a 50-50 blend of the two red varieties to produce an Australian version of the Burgundy blend known as passetoutgrain. Lloyd is a wine technician, but this releaase is all about fun. Excuse me if I gush a little, but this is the perfect young red wine for summer. It's a fresh and lip-smackingly good wine that could stand a few minutes of chilling on a warm day. It's dominated by raspberry and red cherry characters with just a few spicy hints. More importantly, it is deliciously drinkable and delightfully food friendly. If this doesn't sell out sooner rather than later I will be extremely surprised. It's worth buying at least a case. $25. www.eldridge-estate.com.au.

Bowen Estate 2009 Coonawarra Shiraz

2011-11-21T09:01:00.003+11:00

The Bowen family are salt-of-the-earth country folk who produce only three wines each vintage; a cabernet sauvignon, a shiraz and chardonnay. Their labels are minimalist, they still use cork as a closure and their wines are reliably good – and excellent value. This wine, made by father and daughter team Doug and Emma Bowen, has 15 per cent alcohol but you wouldn’t know it, as while it is forceful it also is beautifully balanced with ripe, dark, juicy and sinuous fruit flavours knitted together with hints of spice and laidback cedary oak. It has some attractive savoury tannins and demands to be enjoyed with a dish like traditional roast lamb. $27.

Bream Creek 2010 Late Picked Schonburger

2011-10-22T11:20:00.004+11:00

Fred Peacock from Tasmanian vineyard Bream Creek (situated on the road to Port Arthur and overlooking Marion Bay and Maria Island) believes this may be the only dessert-style schonburger made anywhere in the world. His plantings - he also makes a dry version - were certainly the first in the southern hemisphere. It's a delightfully floral wine, with rose petal and Turkish Delight aromas leading on to a soft, delicate palate with those two characters again prominent. The sugar levels are kept in check by some bright acid, making this a thoroughly delicious wine. $26. www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au.

Shaw Vineyard Estate 2009 Premium Shiraz

2011-10-22T11:12:00.003+11:00

There are some stunning shirazes emerging from the Canberra region; more elegant expressions that are full of interest without being overwhelming. This is a dark purple colour, with oodles of spicy black fruit/Christmas cake characters on the nose leading to ripe, dark berry and currant notes on the palate, which also boasts some intriguing Asian spice notes. It handles its 14.5% alcohol well and is one of those wines that doesn't demand constant attention. A lovely, soft red for everyday drinking pleasure. $22. www.shawvineyards.com.au.

Cooks Lot 2011 Orange Sauvignon Blanc

2011-10-22T11:01:00.004+11:00

Cooks Lot, the vinous creation of former Sydney chef Duncan Cook, is one of those Mudgee labels that sometimes flies under the radar, perhaps due to a lack of serious marketing budget. The wines have improved dramatically over the past couple of years and this is an outstandingly crisp and refreshing young sauvignon blanc, made from Orange fruit. It's a really floral and clean unoaked wine with gooseberry aromas and some delightful tang on the palate, which boasts grapefruit, passionfruit and nashi pear flavours. A lovely white for enjoying well chilled, in its youth. $20. www.cookslot.com.au.

Clonakilla 2010 Shiraz Viognier

2011-10-21T19:03:00.004+11:00

Tim Kirk at Murrumbateman, just outside Canberra, has created the benchmark for cool-climate shiraz/viognier blends. There’s fragrant perfume and lift from the viognier on the nose, but the complex palate has blackberry and plum flavours allied to white pepper and mocha. A gentle, complex, medium-bodied wine that evolves impressively in the glass. This is not a wine that jumps out at you, rather one that creeps up on you with its lithe muscularity. It's a beautifully constructed wine. $100. www.clonakilla.com.au.

Pikes 2009 Luccio Sangiovese

2011-10-15T17:13:00.003+11:00

Sometimes all I want is a savoury red wine that's easy to drink, goes well with food and doesn't cost a fortune. This wine from a reliably good family producer ticks all three of those boxes. Made from 100% sangiovese from the Clare Valley, this is a deliciously slurpable medium-bodied red that would be perfect with a wide range of Mediterranean dishes, from pizzas and pastas to prosciutto. Juicy and approachable but dry and earthy, it is a wine for enjoying with friends rather than one to be dissected and discussed. $18. www.pikeswines.com.au.

Cullen 2009 Kevin John Chardonnay

2011-10-07T18:36:00.004+11:00

If you are looking for Australia's best answer to grand cru Burgundy then you've come to the right place. Biodynamicist Vanya Cullen is crafting some sensational, and beautifully balanced, chardonnays that are pure, complex and full of interest. The fruit for the 2009 Kevin John, named in honour of her father, was picked at intervals over two weeks and at a range of baumés, resulting in added textural interest. Both the nose and palate offer a melange of citrus and stone fruit but there is also some crisp acidity, beautifully integrated oak and some flinty linearity. A truly great wine - and the fourth straight vintage in which I have regarded it worthy of a review. $105. www.cullenwines.com.au.

Grosset 2011 Off-Dry Watervale Riesling

2011-10-03T13:16:00.003+11:00

The second release of riesling maestro Jeffrey Grosset's single vineyard off-dry riesling from the Clare Valley is a step up again from his impressive first vintage. It's a bright and lively wine that's characterised by vivacious lemon blossom and freshly cut lime notes on both the nose and palate, searing minerality and beautifully balanced acidity with the 16g/l of residual sugar adding interest rather than obvious sweetness. One for lovers of German/Austrian wines, or those who simply find young Clare rieslings too confronting, this is perfectly pitched and would be delightful with a Thai banquet. $34. www.grosset.com.au.

Pertaringa 2009 Tannat

2011-09-24T18:07:00.004+10:00

Tannat (the only palindromic grape variety with which I am familiar) is common in the south-west of France, in the foothills of the Pyrenees principally, where it is used as both a stand-alone variety and in red blends, and also in Uruguay, where it is the most common wine grape. McLaren Vale winery Pertaringa is excited about late-ripening tannat's potential in that warm region and this is certainly an impressive wine; a powerful, tannic offering (as is typical with tannat). It is deep purple in colour with ripe, dark berry fruit flavours and chocolate and earthy characters, toasty vanillin oak and fine-grained tannins. A wine of power and structure that will cellar well and would certainly benefit from decanting. $30. www.pertaringa.com.au.

Turkey Flat 2011 Rosé

2011-09-07T15:44:00.004+10:00

I must admit I am a sucker for the rosé revolution; all these new-wave, food-friendly, dry rosés that are perfect lunchtime wines - and are pretty darn good with dinner too. This wine has been one of the flagbearers. A blend of grenache, shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and dolcetto from the Barossa Valley, it is light, crisp and refreshing with a nice balance between red fruit characters and savoury nuances. You could take this on a picnic, pair it with a Lebanese banquet or simply qauff it on the porch on a warm evening. Viva la Revolucion! $$18. www.turkeyflat.com.au

Saint Albert 2009 Pacherenc du Vic Bilh

2011-09-07T11:56:00.003+10:00

Another terrific late-picked wine from Producteurs Plaimont, one of the most consistent co-operatives in the south-west of France. An affordable alternative to the dessert wines of Sauterne, this is a blend of four south-western grapes; petit manseng, gros manseng, petit corbu and arrufiac from the Madiran region. You’ll find ripe citrus and tropical fruit salad notes on the nose, leading in to more ultra-ripe fruit on the palate, balanced by some delightfully fresh acidity. Complexity has been added by oak maturation and while this would be great with puddings, it would also work with pates and blue cheeses. $36 for 500ml. www.discovervin.com.au.

Brokenwood 2009 Graveyard Shiraz

2011-09-04T18:40:00.002+10:00

The price of the individual-vineyard Graveyard keeps rising - but what a serious wine you get for your money. Made from vines that are 40+ years old, this is a Hunter classic from an excllent vintage. It is a plush, savoury and spicy shiraz with great tannin structure that will doubtless cellar for decades if you have the willpower (and it is under screwcap to ensure it is not spoiled by cork taint as it reaches maturity). That said, it is drinking beautifully in its gangly teen years, its intense dark fruit beautifully in balance with the French oak. A stunner. $150. www.brokenwood.com.au

Reillys 2010 Riesling

2011-08-26T16:39:00.003+10:00

My normal preference is for vibrant young Clare Valley rieslings that leap out of the glass with their youthful vigour and zesty enthusiasm. This Watervale offering may be a year old but still has all that cheerleader charm. It's a wine with all the classic Clare attributes, lively citrus aromas with plenty of zingy lemon, lime, Ganny Smith and dry marmalade notes on the palate, along with some slatey notes and delightfully refreshing crisp acid on the finish. Great with pan-fried flathead fillets. $20. wwww.reillyswines.com.au.

Kooyong 2010 Clonale Chardonnay

2011-08-20T19:44:00.002+10:00

Kooyong and sister winery Port Phillip Estate were recently named as his wineries of the year by James Halliday - and there's no doubt the veteran guru still has his finger on the pulse; Sandro Mosele, the winemaker for both labels, is hitting the ball out of the park on a regular basis, as with this moderately (relatively) priced chardonnay that ticks all the boxes for quality (including being under screw cap). It's undergone bells and whistles winemaking with whole-bunch pressing, barrel fermentation in French oak (12% new), on lees maturation etc etc. But it doesn't taste like a wine that has been worked. Rather, it has lovely pure citrus fruit characters, minerality and the merest hints of nuttiness. An elegant wine for the price. $28. www.kooyongwines.com.au.

Urlar 2009 Pinot Gris

2011-08-13T17:39:00.003+10:00

I visited Angus Thomson at his Urlar vineyards at Gladstone, outside Martinborough, a couple of years back and remember being most impressed by the Scotsman's passion for his vines - and biodynamic principles as a means to quality. Urlar uses both organic and biodynamic methods and all future releases will be certified organic. Urlar, by the way, is a Gaelic word that means “The Earth”. The Urlar range; an appealing off-dry riesling, an impressively muscular pinot noir, a sauvignon blanc (of course) and this pinot gris, is now available in Australia through distributors Fine Wine Partners and is creating a bit of stir. I loved this wine; barrel-fermented to add complexity and texture but with pear and nectarine flavours leading the charge on the palate. There's plenty of mouthfeel and lots of length. Winemaker Guy McMaster, formerly of Escarpment, is on song and this is a new name worth checking out. www.urlar.co.nz. $30.

Illuminati 2008 Ilico

2011-08-06T17:01:00.006+10:00

A very quaffable Montepulciano d'Abruzzo for under $15? You'd be well advised to think there has to be a catch, but no, this is a great introduction to Italian wines at a very affordable price. Wth some nice plum/raspberry characters on the nose, this is a medium-bodied, food-friendly wine with plenty of length on the palate and savoury mushroom/delicatessen notes along with hints of black pepper. We paired ours with a dish of pasta, meatballs and parmesan cheese and it proved an excellent combination. Available at Dan Murphy's stores. $12.99.

Gundog Estate 2011 Wild Semillon

2011-07-29T19:24:00.002+10:00

Gundog Estate is a small winery sourcing fruit from the Hunter Valley and Canberra regions that is owned by the parents of Wandin Valley winemaker Matt Burton, one of Hunter's rising stars. This is a terrific young Hunter semillon, low in alcohol at 12.5% and bursting with fresh, vibrant sweet young fruit. A portion of the blend was fermented using indigenous yeast while the juice remained on skins, in much the same way as red wine is made. The end result is a delightful sweet/sour character (with resultant pineapple/apricot/nutty flavours) allied to vibrant acidity and citrus notes. A semillon with the appeal of a fresh, young chardonnay. www.gundogestate.com.au. $30.

Yalumba 2007 The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon

2011-07-24T16:20:00.004+10:00

Named after Sir Robert Menzies, Liberal politician and red wine enthusiast (I'd much rather be drinking The Keating, personally), and produced from fruit grown at Yalumba's Coonawarra outpost, The Menzies has emerged as one of the most consistently reliable cabernets to be found in Australia. Volume from this vintage is small as a result of devastating frosts in late 2006 but the quality is sensational with winemaker Peter Gambetta having crafted an exceptional wine from intensely flavoured but only moderately alcoholic fruit, using new French oak to add complexity and style. And this is, above all else, a supremely stylish wine with classic mint, cassis and chocolate notes along with great structure that will doubtless ensure it develops for a decade or more. www.yalumba.com. $48.

Freycinet Vineyard 2009 Chardonnay

2011-07-11T19:08:00.004+10:00

A classic cool-climate chardonnay made using traditional Burgundian techniques by Tasmanian wine's man-of-the-moment Claudio Radenti. An impressively complex wine, but very easy to drink, this has intense fruit flavours thanks to drought conditions and was matured for 10 months in French oak casks, most of them aged. The end result is a stunning chardonnay with bright stone fruit and fig characters along with hints of nuttiness and creaminess as a result of barrel ferment, lees stirring and malolactic fermentation. Taut, textural and very tempting. www.freycinetvineyard.com.au. $32.

Mumm 1999 Cuvee R. Lalou Champagne

2011-07-11T18:25:00.002+10:00

The 1999 release of Mumm's prestige cuvee lives up to the hype, although you need to be very heeled to afford the pleasure. You get what you pay for, however, and this is truly great Champagne. The wine pays tribute to Rene Lalou, who worked for Mumm for over half a century, and there is no doubt he would be proud of this wine. As you'd expect, there is wonderful pure fruit freshness, tremendous complexity, hints of brioche and biscuit, savoury notes, honey, white nougat and a lively mousse. A 50-50 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, its complexity does not detract from its drinkability. This is a very special bubbly for a special occasion. $360.

Bella Riva 2010 Pinot Grigio Vermentino

2011-06-24T16:59:00.005+10:00

Bella Riva is the new label from Leanne de Bortoli and Steve Webber, who are utilising mainly Italian grape varieties grown in Victoria's King Valley to produce easy-drinking, food-friendly wines for under $20. The red wine of the pair is 2009 blend of sangiovese and merlot that is soft, savoury, rustic and very gluggable. Here the addition of vermentino lifts the pinot grigio, resulting in an aromatic wine that has pear and lemon/lime notes, some nuttiness and great chalky acidity on the finish. An impressive debut - and I like the QR code that takes you direct to an informative video. $18. www.bellariva.com.au.

Hoddles Creek Estate 2010 Chardonnay

2011-06-24T16:37:00.004+10:00

If you are looking for value for money you've come to the right place. I reckon you'd struggle to find a better $20 chardonnay than this one from Franco d'Anna, whose Yarra Valley wines always seem under-priced to me. This one has length, finesse, sensible oak treatment and lovely balance. It is driven by stone fruit and grapefruit flavours and has a crisp acid finish. Thoroughly modern, thoroughly delicious - and it is just 13.2% alcohol, too. The label is minimalist, with no tasting notes or background info, and the website was being constructed when I checked. Not a problem. The wine quality speaks for itself. $20. www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au.

Pressing Matters 2006 R139 Riesling

2011-06-20T12:31:00.003+10:00

Greg Melick and his team at boutique Coal River Valley producer Pressing Matters make an impreessive array of rieslings with various levels of residual sugar. This is a beautifully developed wine that is indisputably sweet (139 grams per litre of sugar no less), but is not at all cloying and has some lovely crisp finishing acid. There are some intense citrus and floral aromas and marmalade/dried fruit flavours on the palate and the wine paired beautifullly with an old-fashioned steamed pudding. A perfect Tasmanian winter combination. $26 for 375mls. www.pressingmatters.com.au

Bunkers 2010 Windmills Rosé

2011-06-13T18:12:00.004+10:00

If you are looking for a wine that will bring back that summer feeling, you won't do much better than this bright, breezy and affordable rosé from the funky Bunkers stable in Margaret River, where wines are named after local surf breaks. Delicate and dangerously drinkable, if this were a pop band it would be Beach Boys - think great harmonies, sweet, high notes and unexpected complexity. Made from shiraz grapes, it's alive with fresh red cherry and ripe strawberry characters, along with hints of Asian spices. It's one for enjoying young and well chilled with Mediterranean or Middle Eastern dishes. And you can't argue about the price. $18. www.bunkerswines.com.au

Clemens Hill 2009 Pinot Noir

2011-06-04T14:22:00.002+10:00

This is a Tasmanian wine from the Coal River Valley outside Hobart that has developed beautifully in recent months - an ugly duckling transformed into a beautiful swan. It was one of the stars of the recent Trans Tasman 7s tasting and is quite an elegant style of pinot with some distinguished fruit flavours and great tannin structure. It opens up in the glass, revealing dark cherries and spicy hints along with persistent dryness on the long finish. A really delightful drink and great value, too. $35. www.clemenshill.com.au

Murray Street 2010 Semillon

2011-05-24T18:36:00.005+10:00

The Murray Street winery in the Barossa Valley is far better known for its gutsy, masculine reds than the small amount of whites it produces, but this wine really stood out from the crowd; my initial note was that it was a "a ridiculously slurpable" wine - and the empty bottle confirmed that impression. Low in alcohol at 11.5% (like its Hunter cousins) this is a wine of purity and intensity that is quite dsiturbingly Hunter-like in style with bright citrus on the nose, lots of mouth-watering flavours and lashings of refreshing acidity. $20. www.murraystreet.com.au.

John Duval 2008 Eligo Shiraz

2011-05-23T12:06:00.002+10:00

For almost 30 years, John Duval was the chief winemaker at Penfolds, producing some of Australia’s classiest reds. Now he’s out on his own and the wines remain exemplary while the price tags are considerably lower - if not exactly bargain basement. You get what you pay for, however, and this wine is all class. The name Eligo is from the Latin meaning “to pick” or “select” and Duval uses the best fruit he can source to make this age-worthy gem. Beautifully constructed, this is a complex, serious wine with layer upon layer of flavour and complexity. There is some powerful dark, concentrated fruit, but everything is perfectly balanced. www.johnduvalwines.com. $110.

Coal Valley Vineyard 2010 Riesling

2011-05-15T14:13:00.002+10:00

Tasmania and the Great Southern region of Western Australia are the two up-and-comers when you are looking for rieslings to challenge long-time champions the Clare and Eden valleys. This is a delightful wine from the Coal River Valley region outside Hobart made in a classic cool-climate riesling style with lime/lemon rind aromas, plenty of bright fresh citrus fruit and minerality on the palate and an impressive acid backbone. Delightfully zingy and refreshing, this is probably best enjoyed in its vivacious youth. www.coalvalley.com.au. $26.

Vasse Felix 2009 Cabernet Merlot

2011-05-09T12:57:00.003+10:00

Vasse Felix winemaker Virginia Willcock is in a groove right now, crafting some very fine Margaret River wines. This is a great choice for anyone looking for a lip-smacking blend of cabernet, merlot and malbec that ticks all the boxes in terms of regionality and drinkability. There are impressive dark fruit flavours alongside well-integrated tannins, impressively subtle oak and plenty of length. One of those wines with both softness and complexity where the bottle is empty before you notice how much you are enjoying it. $25. wwww.vassefelix.com.au.

Penfolds 2006 Grange

2011-04-29T17:14:00.002+10:00

The new release of Australia’s most famous wine is spectacularly good – 2006 is set to be regarded as one of the classic Granges. Made almost entirely from Barossa shiraz (with just a dash of Coonawarra cabernet) it is a beautifully integrated wine; tight-knit but compelling, restrained but promising so much. It has fine-grained tannins with plum, brambly fruits, tar and spice notes all starring, along with immense length and suppleness. Plush and poised; it is already brilliant but tantalises and teases as a cellaring prospect. A rich, beautifully layered wine that lives up to hype. $600.

Lenton Brae 2008 Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon

2011-04-23T17:31:00.003+10:00

I've seen several very good wines from Margaret River winery Lenton Brae over the past few years but this is a defining wine from winemaker Ed Tomlinson; quintessentialy varietal and regional. While 2007 was a great vintage, cooler 08 has been less highly regarded but this ticks all the quality boxes. Small portions of merlot and cabernet franc have been added to the blend, which has lashings of powerful fruit (think blackcurrant, chocolate and eucalpyt characters) and is drinking extremely well in its youth. The wine has spent 18 months in French oak but the wood is well integrated and it is impressively complex and structured. www.lentonbrae.com. $55.

De Bortoli Gulf Station 2010 Pinot Noir

2011-04-07T13:59:00.004+10:00

If you are looking for a pinot noir with infinite complexity and the potential to cellar for decades or more, this is not the wine for you. If, however, you are seeking a fresh, lively young Yarra Valley red that offers immediate drinking pleasure at a sensible price, then you've come to the right place. This has dark cherry flavours to the fore, some earthy, mushroomy notes and quite assertive tannins. It is unmistakeably pinot - which is not something that can be said about many of its similarly-priced rivals. A wine for enjoying with friends and family, without fuss, and very good value for $20.

Thomas Wines 2009 Motel Block Shiraz

2011-04-07T13:10:00.005+10:00

There are many who rate Andrew Thomas as the best winemaker in the Hunter Valley - and I wouldn't disagree. His semillons and shirazes are always top-notch. This is the first release of a new individual vineyard wine from a plot of old-vine grapes that Thomas had been eyeing off for over a decade. While not quite as elegant as the 09 Thomas "Kiss" Shiraz, this may well appeal to a broader constituency. Although bigger than many Hunter shirazes it has impressive structure and some in-your-face aromatic energy. It is a rich, powerful wine - a bit like a Hunter shiraz on steroids; muscular and intense but still unmistakeably varietal and regional. Only 350 dozen were made, so I suspect this may well be sold out before it is released to retail in May. Get on the mailing list. www.thomaswines.com.au. $50.

Oakridge 2010 Over The Shoulder Chardonnay

2011-04-04T12:05:00.002+10:00

Oakridge winemaker David Bicknell has been hitting home run after home run with his 2009 and 2010 whites. His 2009 chardonnays were of exceptional quality and this continues in the same vein; it has intense citrus flavours in the Chablis style, having been aged in stainless steel and older oak barrels. It is the purity and linearity that shines through with just a hint of creaminess on the end. The 2010 Estate Chardonnay, to be released in June, is also a stunner - tightly-knit and vibrant - but this is certain to sell out quickly because it is a ridiculously good wine for $20. www.oakridgewines.com.au

Louee 2010 Nullo Mountain Pinot Grigio

2011-03-16T17:35:00.003+11:00

The fruit for the wines under this label is grown in the wilds of Nullo Mountain outside of Rylstone in Central Western New South Wales on a vineyard that sits at an altitude of 1100 metres above sea level and has a unique terroir. Louee winemaker David Lowe says he’s aiming to reproduce wines in the same style as rieslings from the 1970s; low in alcohol with fresh acidity and ageing potential. This may be a pinot grigio but it has the same clarity and natural acidity as many good rieslings and has been picked at just 11% alcohol. Quince and pear aromas and flavours dominate and the finish is decidely crisp and dry. Stunningly good. www.lowewine.com.au. $25.

K1 by Geoff Hardy 2008 Chardonnay

2011-03-16T17:27:00.004+11:00

I'm overwhelmed by the number of quality chardonnays that cross my desk each week. The new ABC rule should be "Always Buy Chardonnay" given the excellence across the board of recent vintages. Nonetheless, this Adelaide Hills wine stands out from the pack; a cool-climate wine of style and finesse with aromatic attributes leading onto a pure palate in which crispness and linearity are more evident than the French oak and malolactic fermentation. Fresh green apples and citrus are dominant aromas with savoury, brioche notes aiding and abetting the bright fruit and clean acid finish. http://www.k1.com.au/. $35.

1er Yarra Valley 2009 Chardonnay

2011-03-11T19:55:00.002+11:00

A classic cool-climate chardonnay in the modern Australian style from winemaker Franco d'Anna of Hoddles Creek fame. The label suggests a homage to Burgundy and while this wine is determinedly Australian in many ways, it certainly has echoes of Chassagne-Montrachet, too. It's a modern wine with a complex but appealing bouquet leading to white stone-fruit and citrus notes, length, intensity and purity. Lively minerality leads the way on the palate with oak playing very much a support role. This is, quite simply, a delicious chardonnay with beautiful balance. If I'd have had a second bottle on hand I have no doubt I would have finished that as well. $35. www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au.

Elefante 2009 Tempranillo Shiraz

2011-03-06T10:59:00.002+11:00

Spain (and neighboring Portugal for that matter) is producing some terrific wines that fly under the mainstream radar. This is a thoroughly modern red blend from the Castilla region with lots of smart, bright fruit and some impressive earthiness as well. It's a ripe, full-bodied wine that has some appealling berry flavours tempered by good tannin structure. The label is as bold as the contents of the bottle and what is amazing is the price: at $12.99 this puts a lot of domestic reds to shame.

Scarborough 2009 White Label Chardonnay

2011-02-27T10:39:00.003+11:00

Cool-climate chardonnays from regions like Tasmania, the Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula are all the rage but it pays to remember that chardonnay can shine just about anywhere - including the warm Hunter Valley. Winemaker Ian Scarborough has long had a Midas touch with the variety but he'll rarely have made a better wine than this one, which is more restrained in style than many of his offerings but still has plenty of fruit generosity. It's a complex wine with a lot to say; more Cate Blanchett than Cameron Diaz. There's a peachy/spicy bouquet, nectarine/stone-fruit flavours on the palate, compelling structure and impressive acid on the finish, which is surprisingly minerally and tangy given the fruit's provenance. A really lovely wine and excellent value. www.scarboroughwine.com.au. $30.

Robert Stein 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

2011-02-21T10:58:00.002+11:00

This family-owned Mudgee winery has been kicking quite a few goals recently; their 2010 Reserve Riesling is also a ripper. Balance is the key to this dark, rich cabernet, which has the classic blackcurrant and chocolate characters, alongside spice and impressively integrated oak but weighs in at a sensible 13.5% alcohol while still having impressive length and persistence. A terrific wine for pairing with a classic lamb roast. $35.

Morning Sun 2008 Pinot Noir

2011-02-13T17:58:00.003+11:00

I tasted this wine six months ago and was distinctly underwhelmed. I sampled it again at the recent Mornington International Pinot Noir Celebrations and loved it. It's pale, certainly, but it doesn't pay to be colourist with pinot and the way it has evolved is an object lesson in wine as a living organism, constantly changing. This was made by previous incumbent Owen Goodman, not current winemaker Michael Kyberd - and Kyberd admits he is pleasantly surprised at how the wine has developed into a pinot with real pinosity; it's quite light-bodied and delightfully perfumed with beautiful structure and length. Dark cherry and rhubarb characters are prominent along with tons of acid. A wine that will continue to develop over the next few years. www.morningsunvineyard.com.au. $38.

Foster e Rocco 2010 Nuovo Unoaked Sangiovese

2011-02-05T19:27:00.004+11:00

Former Lake House sommelier Adam Foster is proving a dab hand at the winemaking caper with a series of delightfully drinkable wines to his name (and that of fellow sommelier Lincoln Riley in this case). This deliciously different wine really took my fancy. It's a perfect choice for those who enjoy good reds but like to chill them a little - an unoaked sangiovese made from Heathcote fruit that has the typical bright sangiovese dark cherry fruit characters, plenty of earthiness and just a hint of sweetness on the palate. It's simple, rustic, relatively low in alcohol (12.8%) and food friendly. A lot like drinking grape juice - but a whole lot more fun. $30.

Heggies 2010 Riesling

2011-01-24T18:45:00.003+11:00

There is no grape variety in Australia that offers better value for money than riesling; and few labels can match Heggies (and sibling Pewsey Vale) when it comes to quality. The fact this wine can sometimes be found for well under $20 is both a surprise and a blessing for drinkers. From the high country of the Eden Valley, this is a wine of finesse and balance that's a very pale straw colour. There are classic lime and grapefruit aromas with luscious lemon/lime zest on the palate, minerality, zingy finishing acid and great drinkability. A prince of a wine at a pauper's price.
$20.

Whicher Ridge 2010 Riesling

2011-01-22T16:03:00.004+11:00

The Frankland River region of Western Australia is producing some wonderfully poised rieslings and while this is only the second release from Whicher Ridge, it is right up with best. It's a svelte, citrus-driven style with not an inch of extra meat on its bones. Lime, grapefruit and lemon peel aromas and flavours dominate on a wine that is more on the flinty, river pebbles, minerally side of the spectrum and has some lovely linearity and crisp, cleansing acidity along with admirable 12.5% alcohol. One of those wines where one bottle may not be enough, and two would fit the bill a whole lot better. Pair it with fresh grilled sardines. www.whicherridge.com.au $28.

The Story 2009 Associates Grampians Shiraz

2011-01-14T13:21:00.002+11:00

Rory Lane makes three excellent The Story shirazes using Grampians fruit and this entry level offering sells for around $22-24, which is far too cheap. I emailed Rory and told him as much - but even rising winemaking stars need cashflow. While the juicy Sableux and earthy Westgate weigh-in at around $45, this is an excellent way to acquaint yourself with The Story label. Fruit-driven with myriad berry and currant characters, it is slightly spicy with appealing bright acid, whole-bunch pressed, of medium weight with sensible 13.5% alcohol and with a very high drinkability factor. Give this a go next time you are looking for an affordable red to accompany bistro dishes. http://thestorywines.blogspot.com. $22-$24.

Invivo 2010 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

2011-01-08T11:28:00.004+11:00

I can hear the wine snobs scoffing from here. Marlborough sauvignon blanc may be a little passé in trendy circles, but there are still an awful lot of people out there who love it - and this is one of the best releases from 2010, a delightfully perky wine full of youthful exuberance. More restrained and elegant than many of its counterparts, this has tropical/floral aromas and is is driven by subtle citrus and gooseberries on the palate. Nicely textured with mere hints of herbaceousness, this is a delightful wine for enjoying well-chilled over summer. $18.

Coriole 2009 Sangiovese

2010-12-23T14:45:00.004+11:00

The Lloyd family from McLaren Vale winery Coriole pioneered this Italian variety in Australia – first planting the Tuscan grape back in 1985, long before just about anyone else had thought of the idea. They now also make very good nebbiolo and barbera. This is the 23rd vintage of Coriole sangiovese amd it's a dependably good choice to pair with Italian dishes, charcuterie plates or roast meats. It’s savoury and silky with sweet cherry aromas and nicely restrained on the palate with plenty of length, good balance and soft tannins. Great value for the price. $22.

Ross 2008 Barossa Merlot

2010-12-18T15:48:00.004+11:00

I've been having recent issues with Barossa reds - some of them are just too big and alcoholic. I've long had problems with Australian merlots, many of which are monochromatic and boring. This, however, had me re-thinking both points of view. It out-shone several highly credentialed reds in a recent tasting and went well with a steak dish, too. It's a seamless, soft red with dark berry flavours, hints of black olive and spice and has great structure for a wine in its price bracket. I can't remember the last time I drained a bottle of merlot - but this one is definitely empty. www.rosswines.com. $20.

Mitchell Harris 2010 Rosé

2010-12-18T15:31:00.003+11:00

Winemaker John Harris is on fire with his recent releases; I've also been impressed with both his fumé-style sauvignon blancs and his cabernet sauvignons. This wine was one of the stars of a recent rosé tasting and left many bigger names trailing in its wake. It's a prototype for the new wave of savoury rosés that are making the style so popular this summer; vibrant and refreshing with sour cherry and grapefruit tanginess, but at the same time bone dry and intriguing. Made from early-picked pinot noir from the Macedon Ranges in Victoria and sangiovese from the Pyrenees, it is clean, impressively textured and delightfully easy to drink. www.mitchellharris.com.au. $22.

Oakridge 2009 864 van der Meulen Chardonnay

2010-12-13T12:36:00.003+11:00

Just about every wine writer in Australia (and several overseas) has had a crack at proclaiming the greatness of this single-vineyard chardonnay from the Yarra Valley that expresses perfectly what the new wave style of Australian chardonnay represents. So I might as well jump on the bandwagon. Using grapes from the dry-grown van der Meulen Vineyard, winemaker David Bicknell has perfectly captured the purity of the fruit. There are citrus and white peach notes and beautifully balanced oak that aids and abets the fruit rather than intruding. This is a supremely stylish wine, elegant with just 13% alcohol and well worth splashing out some cash on - if you can find any. It has all but sold out. $72.

Penley Estate 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-12-06T20:06:00.004+11:00

Here's a classic Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon released with four years of age that doesn't so much shout out its quality as whisper it gently. It's a wine that probably still has a way to go to reach its peak, too. The characters are typically Coonawarra; with dusty, moccha and tobacco leaf characters alongside ripe, assertive, concentrated cassis fruit and quality smoky oak. The tannins are still very tight and the wine takes time to open up in the glass, but if you enjoy the style, this would be a terrific Christmas drink. Better still, buy a case, enjoy a couple now and put the rest away. $50.

Nepenthe 2010 Altitude Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris

2010-11-26T15:16:00.004+11:00

There is a good reason for the ballooning popularity of pinot gris - it is a pretty handy style of wine for enjoying chilled on a warm summer afternoon. Adelaide Hills winery Nepenthe has been making pinot gris since 1998 - putting it way ahead of the curve - and has a keen handle on how to make the best of the variety. Around 20% of the fruit for this wine was barrel fermented, adding texture and complexity, but it remains fruit-driven with gorgeous aromatics, nashi pear and crisp green appple flavours and nice zingy acidity on the palate. This was the champion pinot gris at National Cool Climate Wine Show - and offers great value with an RRP of $19.

Chapel Hill 2008 The Chosen House Block Shiraz

2010-11-20T12:02:00.003+11:00

Here's a wine for lovers of powerful, expressive reds that speak of their terroir. Michael Fragos and the Chapel Hill team from McLaren Vale have come up with an absolute ripper with a lot happening on the palate; which has intense dark berry fruits, powerful (but not intrusive) oak, mocha and chocolate and a hint of toffee. It's a well-balanced, mouthfilling wine with excellent tannin structure. One for the long haul but approachable now. An excellent partner for roast lamb en croute. $50.

Taylors Promised Land 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-11-15T15:47:00.003+11:00

You’ve got to love a cabernet that ticks all the quality boxes but retails for under $15. This budget offering from family-owned Taylors offers drikability with a capital D. It’s vibrant and juicy, designed to be enjoyed in its youth, but also has plenty of complexity with dark cassis fruit flavours, hints of mocha and savoury oak in perfect balance. A blend of fruit from Padthaway and the Clare Valley it weighs in at just 13.5% alcohol and would be an ideal wine to have on hand when friends drop around for barbecue. $14.

Capital Wines 2010 The Abstainer Rosé

2010-11-08T12:34:00.003+11:00

Talk to many people in the wine industry and they'll tell you the rosé revolution is on the way. It's been coming for a couple of years now with an increasing number of producers opting to make savoury, dry rosés rather than the liquid fairy floss that used to abound. There can hardly be a more appropriate style of wine for an Australian summer day than this delightfully refreshing number from a rising star winery in the Canberra region. Fresh and crisp, this has definite berries and cream character with a hint of fresh herbs. A really lovely wine for enjoying chilled with a picnic, sushi or Middle Eastern cuisine. $18.

Hurley Vineyard 2008 Hommage Pinot Noir

2010-11-01T17:45:00.003+11:00

Hurley Vineyard is the hobby/passion of Victorian Supreme Court judge Kevin Bell and his lawyer partner Tricia Byrnes - but they make wines with so much personality and light and shade that they put many much bigger producers to shame. Their Mornington Peninsula wines - and they only make three pinots in tiny quantities - are what I often choose to drink when I am supping, not spitting. This is a very pale looking wine, but it doesn't pay to be colourist, because this is absolutely stunning. Beautiful aromas lead on to spice, silkines, structure, ripe fruit and fine tannins. My bottle was empty after what seemed like just a couple of sips - always a compelling argument that you have just enjoyed something special. www.hurleyvineyard.com.au $50.

Stefano Lubiana 2008 Estate Pinot Noir

2010-10-23T14:08:00.002+11:00

Attention to detail is a hallmark of Tasmanian vigneron Stefano Lubiana’s wines and this is stunning, almost Burgundian, with a high-wire act balance between silky mouthfeel, earthiness, fine tannins and sweet fruit. Lubiana's wines from his vineyard at Granton in the Derwent Valley, north of Hobart, just get better and better. This would be superb with duck dishes or roast turkey. Lubiana recommends cellaring for 5-8 years but for me it's too bloody delicious right now. $48.

Lock & Key 2009 Hilltops Shiraz

2010-10-18T17:18:00.003+11:00

Jason Brown from Moppity Vineyards seemed a little concerned when I revealed I was writing about this wine; pointing out that other wines under the Moppity label are vastly superior. That may well be true but you can't beat this one for value - a trophy- and gold medal-winning shiraz for under $15 is a bargain in anyone's language. The Hilltops region outside Young is producing some stunning cooler-climate fruit, particularly as vineyard age increases. This is a deeply coloured wine, rich, but in balance, with dark berry and pepper/spice characters and surprising depth for a wine that's so affordable. Load up on the lamb chops! www.moppity.com.au $14.99.

Golding 2010 La Francesa Savagnin

2010-10-09T11:02:00.004+11:00

Savagnin is the new, and rather confusing, name for what we used to call albarino in Australia. Then it was discovered that what we thought was albarino was actually a rare French grape called savagnin (not to be confused with sauvignon blanc). Hence the name of this wine: "La Francesa". Whatever the issues, the end result from this very good Adelaide Hills producer is delicious. It's intensely aromatic with tropical fruits and hints of spice and honey on the palate. Appealingly textural, it's probably closest in style to pinot gris. There's a nice, crisp dry finish, too. This would be a great accompaniment to tapas or a mezze plate. www.goldingwines.com.au. $25.

Jacques Lurton 2008 Touraine

2010-10-02T18:42:00.003+10:00

Jacques Lurton - a member of one of France's most famous winemaking families - is one of the original flying winemakers and has worked just about anywhere on the globe where you find grapes. He's making a success of his Islander Estate label on Kangaroo Island while also importing some of his affordable French wines. This sauvignon blanc has some lovely fresh fruit, Gallic reserve and beguiling layers of flavour. It is dry and vibrant, long and lean with plenty of summer appeal. Drink now. Order from www.iev.com.au. Terrific value at $22.

Philip Shaw No.11 2008 Chardonnay

2010-09-26T19:26:00.002+10:00

Few winemakers can have enjoyed such diverse careers as Philip Shaw, who masterminded Rosemount's global assault and was chief winemaker for Southcorp before turning his back on the corporate dollar to handcraft wines from vineyards outside Orange, where his lounge room serves as his cellar door. This is a terrific offering from his Koomooloo vines, which stand at 900 metres and are now over 20 years old. It's quite stunning with stonefruit flavours, subtle oak, sensible alcohol levels ($12.5%) elegance, balance and - most important of all - drinkability. Great value at $30.

Kooyong 2008 Meres Pinot Noir

2010-09-17T15:11:00.004+10:00

Sandro Mosele makes no fewer than five Kooyong Mornington Peninsula pinots noir that earn a review in James Halliday’s 2011 Wine Companion and this is one of three rated at 95 or better. All the individual vineyard wines, the Ferrous, Haven and Meres, are outstanding; but this one shouts out its quality with delicious red fruit characters, savoury hints and fabulous structure. All class. $66.

Foxeys Hangout 2009 Late Harvest Pinot Gris

2010-08-20T16:42:00.003+10:00

The Lee brothers not only have one of the Mornington Peninsula’s best cellar doors - a "must visit" on any weekend trip to the region - they also offer a range of wines that are beautifully crafted and realistically priced. This has gorgeous silkiness and richness on the palate. It’s very sweet but has had complexity added from barrel fermentation and finishes with lovely cleansing acidity. Great with pates, or blue cheeses. www.foxeys-hangout.com.au $25.

Grosset 2010 Polish Hill Riesling

2010-08-20T16:08:00.004+10:00

This is the 30th release of Jeff Grosset's iconic Clare Valley riesling - and also indisputably one of his best. Australia's riesling master has created an absolute gem; slatey, minerally, citrusy and most of all delicious. While the Polish Hill always ages gracefully this is just downright tempting in its first flush of youth with pristine fruit flavours, wet stone elements, epic dryness and wonderfully enticing acidity. In case you hadn't guessed, this wine rocked my world. $45.

Tapanappa 2009 Foggy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir

2010-08-20T15:42:00.003+10:00

Brian Croser chose one of the coolest, dampest spots on the Fleurieu Peninsula to plant pinot noir vines after identifying Foggy Hill as a "distinquished site." The veteran winemaker's faith has been rewarded with delightful 2009; ethereal aromas are followed up by a medium-bodied, dry and subtle wine on the palate with hints of both stalks and earthiness. A savoury, beautifully structured wine that opened up over the 48 hours after the cork had been pulled. What a pity it is under cork, though. $50.

Scarpantoni 2008 Block 3 Shiraz

2010-08-20T14:34:00.003+10:00

This a real Alpha Male wine. Chest puffed out, unashamedly macho. Lovers of big, gutsy reds need look no further; this is a powerful beast from the McLaren Vale winery that won the Jimmy Watson Trophy in 2007 and is made from fruit grown on non-irrigated vines. Dark currant and mint aromas are followed up by sweet, dark berry and plum fruit characters, richness and suppleness on the palate aided and abetted by a good lashing of American oak. There's not much subtlety here - it's 15% alcohol - but there is plenty of flavour that will doubtless mellow out over the next 10-15 years. $30.

Bellwether 2009 Tamar Valley Chardonnay

2010-08-16T18:29:00.002+10:00

This is a beautifully balanced wine from former Stonehaven winemaker Sue Bell that underlines the immense potential of Tasmanian chardonnay. Matured in 500-litre French oak puncheons, it calls to mind some of the best of Chablis, with characteristic mineral and flint characters alongside fullness and complexity in a wine with just 12.5 per cent alcohol. The fruit is ripe but there are citrus notes, nuttiness and terrific taut acidity. If this was a piece of music, it would be a glorious, soaring violin concerto. A wine of persistence and precision. www.bellwetherwines.com.au. $50.

Patina 2003 Jezza Cabernet Merlot

2010-08-09T13:35:00.003+10:00

You've got to love a 2003 wine that's a current release; particularly one this good. Orange is fast emerging as one of Australia's best cool-climate wine regions and Californian-born Gerald "Jezza" Naef is making some of the most impressive wines from the Central West of NSW; wines that are at once complex and elegant. This is one of the first wines Naef made; a blend of caebernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc that has plenty of structure, soft tannins and length. Very impressive and potentially long lived. www.patinawines.com.au. $35.

Glaetzer-Dixon Family Winemakers 2009 Uberblanc Riesling

2010-08-02T16:46:00.004+10:00

Nick Glaetzer may be a member of one of the Barossa Valley's best-known winemaking families but these days he is part of the talented team at Frogmore Creek in Tasmania's Coal River Valley. He is also crafting some exceptional wines under his own family label, including a pair of very fine pinots. This beautiful riesling is very much based on the German model with floral and citrus aromas, delicious lime and mineral flavours on the tightly-structured palate and plenty of refreshing acidity. A wine that’s good enough to convert even the most obtuse unbeliever to the riesling team. $25. www.gdfwinemakers.com.

Lerida Estate 2008 Botrytis Pinot Gris

2010-07-26T17:31:00.003+10:00

Lerida Estate has the midas touch not only with pinots noir; but also with pinots gris, producing outstanding wines year in, year out. This is a stunningly good dessert wine made from botrytised grapes grown on the estate vineyard at Lake George, outside Canberra. It is a totally indulgent wine with a range of enticing flavours on a rich, complex palate; apricots, spicy apples, nuts, spice and marmalade characters are all present. It is unashamedly sweet and smooth but has a zingy acid finish. Great with fruit tarts but even better with offal dishes, pates, terrines and blue cheeses. Spectacular. $45.

Yabby Lake 2008 Chardonnay

2010-07-16T18:16:00.003+10:00

If I have to listen to one more person tell me they don't like chardonnay, I'll rip their head off. Chardonnay is not what it used to be - and is all the better for it. This is an absolutely cracking wine from the Mornington Peninsula, searingly clean with lovely intense grapefruit and white stone fruit flavours, impressive texture, flinty minerality, focus, restrained oak and refreshing acid. It's a wine in which everything is beautifully balanced. Kudos to winemaker Tom Carson for a job well done. $44.

Charles Melton 2010 Rose of Virginia

2010-07-11T11:46:00.002+10:00

Charlie Melton is one of the great characters of the Barossa - and one of the region's best winemakers. Vintage after vintage this wine, named for his wife Virginia, is one of Australia's best dry rosés - and has built up something of a cult following. This co-fermented blend of grenache, cabernet, shiraz, pinot meunier and mataro is at once rich and powerful, youthful, crisp, spicy and gloriously gluggable. The natural acidity makes it wonderfully food friendly - and it was a clear winner in a tasting of over 20 current release rosés. An Australian benchmark. $23.

Shelmerdine 2007 Merindoc Shiraz

2010-07-03T17:28:00.002+10:00

I've been very impressed with the 2007 shirazes from Heathcote in Victoria; wines that for the most part manage to combine power with elegance. This, made by the very talented Sergio Carlei, and the 2007 Heathcote Estate are among my favourites. The Shelmerdine wine has a brambly nose, is richly coloured and has a wonderful array of dark berry and black chocolate characters on the palate, along with integrated French oak. A savoury, serious wine that will doubtless evolve impressively over the next few years. Pair it with a winter game stew. $65.

Krinklewood 2009 Chardonnay

2010-06-28T19:33:00.004+10:00

Krinklewood is one of the quiet achievers of the Hunter Valley, Rod Windrim's biodynamic vineyard tending to fly under the radar because of its remote location on Wollombi Road. That's a darn shame because the wines from Krinklewood are invariably delightful - and keenly priced. This is a lovely modern chardonnay, light in alcohol at 12.7% and elegant in style. It's grapefruit-tinged citrus characters that dominate on the palate with oak and almond hints very much in the background. If this came from an acclaimed cool-climate region it would be creating a considerable stir with its quality. $24.

Vinteloper 2008 Shiraz

2010-06-23T12:51:00.003+10:00

Vinteloper is a new name on the wine scene; making young winemaker David Bowley either very brave or extremely foolhardy in a hugely competitive industry. Fortunately, the wines are good enough to ensure a solid future for the former cork salesman (who sensibly uses screwcaps for his own wines). This McLaren Vale shiraz is big and concentrated but also has considerable elegance - a difficult trick to pull off in what was a nightmarishly hot vintage. Dark cassis flavours star on the palate, along with hints of spicy oak. Smooth, with plenty of length, this is a wine with excellent structure, good tannins and immediate drinkability. $40.

Dowie Doole 2010 Chenin Blanc

2010-06-15T15:31:00.004+10:00

Chenin Blanc is often called chenin bland because of the many undistinguished wines it produces, but there's an exception to every rule and this is an absolute cracker from McLaren Vale; dry with crisp green apple flavours, it is light, zingy and lively - and a very good alternative to sauvignon blanc. The wine is almost water-coloured but don't be deceived. It is aromatic on the nose with some nice flinty minerality on the finish. This would be great with oysters, or a seafood platter, and is great value for $18.

Cape Mentelle 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-06-08T16:22:00.003+10:00

Cape Mentelle is one of the benchmark Margaret River cabernets, consistently excellent, and this is an impressive wine from a challenging vintage, a testament to the attention to detail shown. It's medium bodied with intense dark cherry, blackcurrant and tapenade characters, forward tannins, well-balanced oak treatment and hints of coffee and chocolate. Opulent and stylish but with great drinkability, this is highly recommended. Terrific with game meats like venison. $84.

Josef Chromy 2008 SGR Delikat Riesling

2010-05-31T17:37:00.001+10:00

Made in a German off-dry style, this is a cracking Tasmanian riesling with 60 grams of residual sugar and just 8.5% alcohol. Picked at under 11 baume, it has delicate aromatics, searing acidity on the lively palate and really vibrant flavours. Sweeter wines like this are not just for the blue-rinse set. While it would be lovely with desserts, it would also shine if paired with terrines, pates, blue cheeses, or even calves liver dishes. Thoroughly modern, thoroughly delicious. $25.

Riposte by Tim Knappstein 2010 The Foil Sauvignon Blanc

2010-05-24T17:41:00.003+10:00

I'd just written some tasting notes on the fabulous 2009 The Foil when the 2010 landed on my doorstep. Seems the 2009 was so popular that the 2010 has been rushed into the marketplace in all its fresh, zesty glory. The 2009 was a lovely laidback wine by the time I tried it while the vivacious 2010 is upfront with its vibrant gooseberry and tropical fruit salad flavours and steely acid on the finish. Knappstein was one of the first Australian winemakers to get to grips with sauvignon blanc and he certainly hasn't lost his touch. $20.

Rosabrook 2009 Chardonnay

2010-05-17T14:34:00.002+10:00

Another ripping chardonnay from Margaret River; thoroughly modern in style and extremely drinkable. This is the complete package. It's got elegance, linear minerality, zingy citrus and white peach flavours, nutty nuances, plenty of length and complexity but most of all is beautifully balanced. This is a fresh, clean and crisp wine for enjoying over the next couple of years. It rocked my socks and can be found for under $25.

Caillard 2008 Mataro

2010-05-11T11:44:00.003+10:00

Andrew Caillard, Master of Wine, head of the Langton's auction house and one of Australia's foremost wine experts, has released his first wine - and what a cracker it is. Using 100% mataro from a hot year in the Barossa Valley, Caillard and his wife Bobby have artfully crafted a wine that is very much European in style; medium-bodied, elegant, complex and muscular; with sensible alcohol levels (13.5%), new oak very much in a support role and just the right balance between dark berry and savoury characters. To top it all off, Caillard painted the label artwork. A brilliant debut. Purchase at www.caillardwine.com. $45.

Bremerton 2008 Tamblyn

2010-05-05T13:05:00.002+10:00

A gutsy and delicious blend of cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, malbec and merlot from the vastly under-rated region of Langhorne Creek. This boasts generous flavours with mouhfilling dark fruit and hints of mint, eucalypt and cedar. It's a big rich wine, earthy and long,that’s heaps of fun to drink – and a great partner for meats, cheeses, pasta and pizza. $20.

McHenry Hohnen 2007 3 Amigos

2010-04-24T18:47:00.003+10:00

Sometimes you come across a bottle of wine that seems to simply evaporate in the glass. This my friends is just such a bottle. A blend of shiraz, grenache and mataro, it is a darn sight more interesting than most GSMs emanating from South Australia. This is a wine that screams "drink me". It has bright, shiny fruit but plenty of action on the palate. Complex but not demanding. Hard to go past this one. $24.

Crittenden Estate 2009 Los Hermanos Tributo a Galicia

2010-04-19T11:42:00.003+10:00

Don't be put off by the complicated name; this is a cracker. Made from the grape variety formerly called albarino in Australia (which actually turned out to be savagnin) the label is Rollo Crittenden's little joke; a tribute to Galcia in Spain, from where albarino originates. This is floral on the nose, with juicy ripe pear characters on the palate and a crisp, dry finish. Disarmingly drinkable. $29.

Paradigm Hill 2007 L'Ami Sage Pinot Noir

2010-04-14T15:05:00.004+10:00

One of the rising stars of the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Paradigm Hill is the vision of passionate former medical researcher and biotech expert Dr George Mihaly and his wife Ruth, a former chef and now a viticulturist. This is an outstanding Australian pinot with lovely aromatics and and an excellent fruit/oak balance. It's already soft and smooth, with smart dark cherry flavours and hints of earthiness. It will probably cellar well but you may find it hard to stay hands off as it is drinking superbly right now. $50-60.

Terre a Terre 2009 Sauvignon Blanc

2010-04-08T19:02:00.004+10:00

Who would have thought that a wine from Wrattonbully under a new label would be perhaps the most interesting savvy in Australia? This is a very impressive wine from the husband-and-wife team of Xavier Bizot and Lucy Croser; very textural in a fumé style with some wonderful complexity and sensible alcohol levels (12.7%). Unsurprisingly, and unashamedly, French in style but with some jolly, zingy Australian fruit character too. One out of the box and up there with Kiwi stars Greywacke and Te Koko. Brilliant for $24.

Taylors 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-03-31T20:24:00.004+11:00

It's hard to go wrong with the wines from this family-owned Clare Valley producer, which are invariably good value for money. This is a lip-smackingly good, rich and powerful red wine with plenty of oomph on the palate, oak in harmony and soft tannins. It's a juicy and appealing red wine with that indefinable quality: drinkability. You'll probably find it for less than the RRP of $19.

Turkey Flat NV Pedro Ximénez

2010-03-25T18:18:00.003+11:00

I just can't get enough of this delicious fortified wine made from the Spanish grape Pedro Ximénez in the Barossa Valley. The concentrated fruit flavours have been aided by maturation in French oak hogsheads, resulting in a wine that is dark amber in colour, has chunky marmalade and citrus peel aromas and is luscious and intense on the palate, where you'll find more dark marmalade characters. A fabulous way to round off an evening. $27 for 375mls.

Capel Vale 2009 Debut Unwooded Chardonnay

2010-03-18T09:09:00.002+11:00

The offerings from this West Australian winery are reliably good and this is a terrific-value quaffer that's perfect for long autumn evenings. It's a classic fruit-driven, cool-climate chardonnay with lifted tropical fruit aromas and plenty of crisp freshness on a palate that shows citrus and white peach characters with plenty of length. Drink young, drink chilled. $18.

Sevenhill 2008 Inigo Merlot

2010-03-11T10:56:00.002+11:00

Let me say up front that I am no great fan of Australian merlot - but more wines like this could easily make me change my mind. Sevenhill, the Jesuit winery in the Clare Valley, has come up with a ripper here, picked ahead of the hot conditions that made 2008 so difficult for many. This is a dark, inky wine with cassis and pepper notes, soft and smooth on the palate with dark berry and Christmas Cake flavours aided by cedary oak. Nicely balanced with plenty of mouthfeel. $22.

Annie’s Lane 2009 Chardonnay

2010-03-04T13:45:00.001+11:00

A very modern Australian style of chardonnay bursting with peach and melon flavours – a wine to remind us why we used to love chardonnay so much. Bells-and-whistles winemaking techniques have produced a fresh, clean white with plenty of length of flavour. A terrific buy for under $20.