Vinteloper is a new name on the wine scene; making young winemaker David Bowley either very brave or extremely foolhardy in a hugely competitive industry. Fortunately, the wines are good enough to ensure a solid future for the former cork salesman (who sensibly uses screwcaps for his own wines). This McLaren Vale shiraz is big and concentrated but also has considerable elegance - a difficult trick to pull off in what was a nightmarishly hot vintage. Dark cassis flavours star on the palate, along with hints of spicy oak. Smooth, with plenty of length, this is a wine with excellent structure, good tannins and immediate drinkability. $40.
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