Few winemakers can have enjoyed such diverse careers as Philip Shaw, who masterminded Rosemount's global assault and was chief winemaker for Southcorp before turning his back on the corporate dollar to handcraft wines from vineyards outside Orange, where his lounge room serves as his cellar door. This is a terrific offering from his Koomooloo vines, which stand at 900 metres and are now over 20 years old. It's quite stunning with stonefruit flavours, subtle oak, sensible alcohol levels ($12.5%) elegance, balance and - most important of all - drinkability. Great value at $30.
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