Kooyong and sister winery Port Phillip Estate were recently named as his wineries of the year by James Halliday - and there's no doubt the veteran guru still has his finger on the pulse; Sandro Mosele, the winemaker for both labels, is hitting the ball out of the park on a regular basis, as with this moderately (relatively) priced chardonnay that ticks all the boxes for quality (including being under screw cap). It's undergone bells and whistles winemaking with whole-bunch pressing, barrel fermentation in French oak (12% new), on lees maturation etc etc. But it doesn't taste like a wine that has been worked. Rather, it has lovely pure citrus fruit characters, minerality and the merest hints of nuttiness. An elegant wine for the price. $28. www.kooyongwines.com.au.
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