Rusden 2009 Full Circle Mataro

From one of the unsung heroes of the Barossa Valley comes this single-vineyard mataro that is seductively savoury and beautifully balanced. A million miles away from some of the Barossa blockbusters in style, this is a wine that can confidently be savoured over several days (it was just as fresh on day three as when it was opened). It's a fruit-driven wine with 14% alcohol with a decidedly perky, spicy nose and plenty of length on the palate. Impressive, $45.  www.rusdenwines.com.au.