Tapanappa 2010 Foggy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir

The latest Tapanappa pinot noir release from winemaking veteran Brian Croser's Foggy Hill Vineyard - a cool site at 350 metres above sea level on the Fleurieu Peninsula - is both exquisitely balanced and scarily Burgundian. It's a medium-bodied wine, concentrated, but with everything exquisitely in place. Matured in French oak barriques (30% new), it has dark cherry, brambly and savoury notes on the palate, some fleshy nuances despite 10% whole bunch input and plenty of length on the finish. It is the vinous equivalent of a supermodel at Cannes: cool, calm and collected. And, joy of joys, it is bottled under screw cap. $50. www.tapanappawines.com.au.