Primo Estate 2012 La Biondina

Is this the best colombard in the world? Quite probably. Is this one of Australia's best wine bargains? Most definitely. For 30 years now Joe Grilli has been coaxing extraordinary results from his colombard vines on the Adelaide Plains. What is so often a dull grape used for blending turns from an ugly duckling to a beautiful swan in Grilli's capable hands. Fresh and fruity, zingy and zesty, this is a quintessential summer wine, unoaked with lively tropical fruit salad flavours, citrus peel and a delightful briskness on the finish. The name, La Biondina, means "young blonde" - and this is certainly a wine to be enjoyed in its youth. $16. www.primoestate.com.au.