Serafino 2009 Sharktooth Shiraz

Rich, but impressively structured, this is the flagship red wine from McLaren Vale producer Serafino; a metrosexual wine made in tiny quantities. It has lots of power with intense dark fruit alongside coffee, spice and oak notes on the nose. The palate is all dark chocolate and ripe plums, beautifully integrated with French and American oak, but there is also a purity and length (and just 14% alcohol) along with the architecture to suggest a long cellar life. Half lethal martial arts expert, half gymnast, this is a wine of impressive class and drinkability.  $70.  www.serafinowines.com.au.