Rob Dolan is a larger-than-life character who has enjoyed several winemaking incarnations in the Yarra Valley. True Colours is his new range of brightly labelled Yarra wines, of which I found this the standout in a line-up of several well-regarded chardonnays. It's one of those wines where everything has come together seamlessly with a nice union of stone fruit and citrus notes, subtle oak (15% new) and some minerality and nuttiness on the palate. A wine for sipping on the porch on a late autumn afternoon. One glass will probably not be enough. $24. www.robdolanwines.com.au
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