A.Retief 2012 Gundagai Shiraz

If you enjoy red wines than sing softly rather than shriek, then you've come to the right place. This is a quite splendid cool-climate shiraz made by Alex Retief from fruit grown on his family's biodynamic vineyard in the Gundagai region, previously better known for a sculpture of a dog on a box rather than vinous excellence. This, however, should make you sit up and pay attention. It is a melodious wine of great subtlety, with dark cherry and white spice notes canoodling contentedly. There is plenty of length and plenty of flavour (and only 11.5% alcohol) but all the elements are seamless. Quite simply a lovely drink. $28. www.aretief.com.au