There are some stunning cool-climate chardonnays being produced in Australia right now - and this is up with the very best of them. The 2014 vintage was a tricky one in the Yarra Valley but Giant Steps winemaker Steve Flamsteed and his team overcame all to produce some brilliant offerings; most notably this luminous chardonnay made from fruit grown on label owner Phil Sexton's own vineyard. Flamsteed says the 2014 wines are "rare and very special and we think they are the most honest and exciting wines we have ever made." From vineyards that are managed biodynamically, this has all the winemaking bells and whistles; partial whole bunch, indigenous ferment, malo, quality oak and no filtration. The end result is stunning; a complex, racy wine with brisk minerality and immediate appeal. I'll give it 95 points - and say it is cracking value. $45. www.innocentbystander.com.au/
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