From one of the consistently finest vineyards in the Yarra, this terroir-driven wine is also made by one of the best winemaking teams. Assertive, a little stern even, but not at all shouty, this is the wine I choose to mark New Year's Eve. Very youthful right now, it is a classic cellaring pinot with blue and dark fruits, hints of spice and delicatessen earthiness all playing their roles. There is a 20% whole bunch element adding texture, and mainly older oak barrels with a subtle presence in the show. A lot of length here, too, and plenty of drinking pleasure, whether you go short term or show a little patience. As this is from a terrific vintage, perhaps patience might be in order. $96. https://www.oakridgewines.com.au/
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