Centare Vineyard - previously known as Coranderrk Estate - had somehow flown under my radar until recently. This excellent Yarra Valley chardonnay made me sit up and take notice, however, and it was no surprise to discover the wine was the work of excellent winemaker Nicole Esdaile. If Burgundy floats your boat then you will very much enjoy this sassy but elegant chardonnay which has tremendous drive and poise with bright, fresh acid and classic cool-climate chardonnay flavours. Wild fermented and matured in oak puncheons and with 20% having undergone malo, this is the product of a very good vintage. Ripe, but impressively balanced with citrus, stone fruit and brioche notes in harmony, this marks Centare as a label to watch. $70. https://centarevineyard.com/
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