If you tasted this blind, you'd swear it was a $50 chardonnay. From a year that produced a much reduced volume of grapes, the d'Anna family has once again delivered a cool-climate Yarra Valey chardonnay that offers a whole lot of drinking pleasure. This is lean and clean, unmistakably chardonnay but with plenty of tang on the palate. Think classic stone fruit and citrus fruit aromas and flavours, a touch of oak adding palate interest, some chalky, biscuity notes and impressively brisk acid on the finish. Absolutely excellent. $26. www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au/