Bryan Martin is a long-time collaborator with the Kirk family at Clonakilla, but also makes serious ripples with his own wines under the Ravensworth label, also based in Murrumbateman, outside Canberra. This is one of the finest Australian sangioveses that I have had the pleasure of tasting, ethereal, dangerously drinkable. No fertilisers, chemicals or pesticides, no fining or filtering. This was whole-berry processed to oak cuves, plunged daily during fermentation, sealed up, topped as skins soften then locked up for six months. Pressed and returned to cask, it was then transferred with lees to Hungarian oak casks for another year. Poised, textural, complex, savoury but silky, this matched brilliantly with pizzas, but also has the complexity to be enjoyed with more serious dishes. Outstanding drinking for $45. But be quick. Volumes are tiny. http://www.ravensworthwines.com.au/
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