Rutherglen Estates 2009 Savagnin

Savagnin is the new name for what we previously called albarino - but turned out not to be. The name change is certain to cause confusion (I've already had one magazine helpfully change savagnin to sauvignon) but what is not in doubt is that this is very enjoyable young white at a good price. There are some attractive floral/ctrus notes and a lovely creamy texture on the palate. Terrific drinking at $16.95.

Clonale Chardonnay by Kooyong 2008

Kooyong winemaker Sandro Mosele is in the zone with his superb Mornington Peninsula chardonnays. This has wonderful mineral intensity and freshness – and is probably the closest thing you’ll find to Chablis in Australia. It is whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented but with only 10% new oak it's the fruit that does all the talking. Flinty, dry and brilliant! $26.

Curly Flat 2006 Pinot Noir

A superb new release from Phillip Moraghan, who produces some exquisite pinots at his Macedon Ranges winery in Victoria. This is estate-grown, vinified and bottled and offers everything you'd want in a fine pinot; bright fruit, velvety mouthfeel with savoury/mushroomy characters then kicking in. There is intensity and tremendous length on the palate, making this an absolute pleasure to drink. $52.

Cloudy Bay 2006 Te Koko

I've always been a fan of Cloudy Bay's regular sauvignon blanc, but have never liked its heavily-worked, oakier cousin Te Koko until this vintage. The funk and oak have been turned down, but not off, and the end result is a wine full of interest; layers of flavours, softness and richness on the palate from barrel fermentation and a nice clean finish. Mature and a million miles away from standard savvys - but it won me over. $60.