Primo Estate 2012 La Biondina

Is this the best colombard in the world? Quite probably. Is this one of Australia's best wine bargains? Most definitely. For 30 years now Joe Grilli has been coaxing extraordinary results from his colombard vines on the Adelaide Plains. What is so often a dull grape used for blending turns from an ugly duckling to a beautiful swan in Grilli's capable hands. Fresh and fruity, zingy and zesty, this is a quintessential summer wine, unoaked with lively tropical fruit salad flavours, citrus peel and a delightful briskness on the finish. The name, La Biondina, means "young blonde" - and this is certainly a wine to be enjoyed in its youth. $16. www.primoestate.com.au.

Arrivo 2008 Nebbiolo

I was just rushing out of a wine tasting, en route to another wine tasting, when fellow scribe Max Allen suggested I hold my horses and check out the Arrivo nebbiolos. Max, as usual, was right on the money. Wine scientist Peter Godden and his partner Sally McGill handcraft tiny quantities of stylish wines in the Adelaide Hills, paying tribute to the great wines of Piedmont. Even though this beautifully savoury and structured wine is four years old, it will ideally be consumed in 15-20 years down the track. It is a wine with impressive architecture, a vinous cathedral with many elements to admire. I loved its brambly intensity and length, tannin structure and its peacock's tail of intense dark fruit and earthy, mushroomy flavours. $48. www.arrivo.com.au.   

Grosset 2012 Polish Hill Riesling

Just as Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace are regarded as Australia's iconic red wines, so is Grosset Polish Hill Riesling seen as the benchmark white. It's the wine every restaurateur wants on their list and one collectors have to move swiftly to secure as it always sells out. Year in, year out, Polish Hill delivers purity, minerality and intense freshly squeezed lime juice fruit. It's as fresh as a mountain stream, concentrated and delicious. With 2012 being regarded as one of the greatest riesling vintages for some time, this sleek number may be in short supply. Move fast. If this were a car, it would be a sleek silver Ferrari.  $50.

TarraWarra 2011 Pinot Noir Rosé

This new release from Yarra Valley winery TarraWarra Estate is bang on target as an example of the new-wave savoury rosés that spearheaded last year's Rosé Revolution. Made from 100% pinot noir and aged first in stainless steel, then for three months in older French oak puncheons to add complexity, this is made in deliberately dry, food-friendly style that has some very interesting textural elements. Elegant, with wild strawberry notes and delightfully fresh acid, I would place this among Australia's very best rosés. $22.