This is one of Australia's benchmark chardonnays; a wine that is both an expression of its terroir and an outstanding drink in its own right. If you like oaky, blousy chardonnays you've come to the wrong place; this is elegant in the style of white Burgundy with melon aromas and intense grapefruity citrus that reflects a cool vintage in the Adelaide Hills. There is attractive bright acidity alongside textural elements added by malolactic fermentation and lees maturation. The 33% new Vosges oak sits quietly in the background, never intruding. Simply lovely stuff from veteran winemaker Brian Croser and his talented family team. $79. https://tapanappa.com.au
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