Wirra Wirra 2022 RWS Shiraz

Some McLaren Vale shirazes can be big, brutal drinks; the vinous versions of a rugby front row forward. This very clever composition is, however, somewhere between an agile back rower and a nifty half. Impressively balanced, in other words. It is named in tribute to Robert Strangways Wigley, a noted South Australian eccentric and state cricketer who established Wirra Wirra back in 1894. This is plush and poised as well as possessing power and presence. Think dark berry/currant flavours, spice notes and dark chocolate before a fleshy finish. The 2022 release is from four blocks, three of them biodynamic. It has been matured in French oak barriques (33% new) for 18 months. Drink now with a meaty casserole, or cellar for a decade or more. $80. https://wirrawirra.com/

Taylors 2023 St Andrews Chardonnay

 

The Clare Valley is not where I would immediately look for classy chardonnay, but this one is a very pleasant surprise; delivering a lot of immediate drinking pleasure. It is a very elegant and appealing chardonnay from the upper echelons of the Taylor family's multiple ranges. This is a smooth and sophisticated drop with lots of length and stylish varietal character. Think restrained stone fruit flavours, nutty hints and well-integrated French oak that aids rather than dominating. Along with hints of shortbread and flinty minerality, this is a complete package. Match with roast chicken or a leafy goat cheese salad. $45. https://www.taylorswines.com.au/ 

Standard price

Sutton Grange 2024 Fairbank Rosé

 

The family-owned Sutton Grange winery in Central Victoria has a long-held reputation for producing outstanding rosé wines - and the current release 2024 Fairbank is no exception. The wines are invariably intensely flavoured, dry and well balanced. This vintage has garnered several awards and offers elegance and drinkability without an excessive price tag. It is a blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese with a dash of viognier that opens up to reveal classic berries and cream notes with a hint of shortbread. There are some creamy textural elements but it finishes savoury and dry with crisp acidity. For a classic wine-and-food match pair this with a Lebanese mezze plate. $35. https://suttongrange.com.au/

Saltram 2023 Mamre Brook Cabernet Sauvignon

  

The Barossa would not normally be my "go to" region for cabernet sauvignon, but this is one out of the box from winemaker Alex Mackenzie and his team. Saltram is a label that dates back to 1859, so there is plenty of history here. The 2023 vintage was a cold and wet one but classic cabernet characters still shine through in a wine that is medium bodied and astutely judged. I like this one a lot with its dark colour, ripe currant and dark cocoa flavours allied to dried leaf and Asian spice notes. It finishes with powdery tannin structure. There is a small amount of shiraz in the mix to add power, and there is certainly a lot of immediate drinking appeal here. $38. www.saltramwines.com.au.