Winemaker Jim Chatto is doing some very good things at Pepper Tree in the Hunter Valley and this is exhibit (a). It's a crisp and zingy wine, with lively citrus flavours on the palate, a hint of spice and plenty of length and definition. It went down very well with a kung pao chicken dish and it remains a mystery to me why these vibrant, youthful Hunter semillons aren't all the rage over summer. They should be. $22.