Curly Flat 2009 Chardonnay

Wow! This is an extraordinarily impressive chardonnay from Philip Moraghan's outstanding vineyard site in Victoria's Macedon Ranges - one of the coolest in the country. I left this for a few months after release and tasted it against some Premier League domestic rivals and it was a clearcut winner in top-class company. It's a lovely wine with just 13% alcohol by volume and has some stone fruit and nutty characters counterbalanced by brisk citrus. Comparisons are odious, but this is certainly Burgundian in style, crisp but at the same time supple with a beguiling complexity. Pair it with roast pork. $48. www.curlyflat.com.