It's been a few years since I've encountered ebullient Woodstock winemaker Scott Collett, or tasted any of his McLaren Vale wines, so I was pleased to see the 2010 reds in his "bistro series" are all impressive, although this classic blend was the one that particularly took my fancy. Collett and co-winemaking conspirator Ben Glaetzer have come up with a wine that is not only full of flavour, but offers very good value. The shiraz has provided the juicy fruit and spice, the cabernet the tannin structure. From a very good vintage, this hits a sweet spot between bright fruit and savoury characters and would be terrific with winter dishes like lamb shanks, or goat souvlaki. It'll probably cellar well for five or so years, as well. $18.www.woodstockwine.com.au.