I loved the 2010 vintage of this import from near Limoux in the spectacular Aude region of southern France but the 2011 is, if anything, even more impressive with a tightrope balance between bright fruit flavours and elegance. On the second sip I wrote on Twitter that is was a wine that had "empty bottle" written all over it. And so it proved. It's made by British couple James and Katherine Kinglake and has the flinty notes and citrus you'd associate with Chablis, alongside some New World sweet fruit. it's a blend of mainly stainless steel-fermented fruit and some barrel fermented. The vineyard has been organically farmed for the last 30 years and wine has been produced on the estate since the 16th century. The name reflects the local postcode. Once again, the wine is imported into Australia by the canny Marcus Gniel of Ce Soir wines in Healesville. $25. www.cesoirwine.com.