There are a lot of good judges who believe that Nero d'Avola, the major red grape from Sicily, is one of the new-wave varietals most likely to succeed in Australia. The grapes are late-ripening, thrive in warmer climes and produce flavoursome medium-bodied wines. This is the first Nero d'Avola released by Stephanie Toole at Mount Horrocks in the Clare Valley - and it is extremely impressive. From a single vineyard in Watervale, this certified-organic offering is made in a fruit-driven style, perfect for early drinking enjoyment. It's produced in tiny quantities (around 100 cases) and its bright and lively freshness would make it a perfect partner for a rustic dish of meatballs, spaghetti and Italian cheese. $35. www.mounthorrocks.com.