Houghton 2012 Jack Mann Cabernet Sauvignon

First produced in 1994, this single-vineyard wine from the Frankland River region of West Australia's Great Southern honours Jack Mann, who was senior winemaker at Houghton from 1930-1972. From a great red vintage, this is made from some of the region's oldest vines. It is an Immensely satisfying wine, with impressive dark fruit and impeccable balance, while subtle oak and an assertive tannin structure suggest this will cellar well for decades. One of the best Jack Manns to date. $115.

Singlefile 2014 Porongurup Riesling

Regions of West Australia's remote Great Southern region, particularly Frankland River and the Porongurups, are noted for producing steely, classy rieslings of impeccable line and length. This bone dry number is gloriously gluggable, weighing in at just 11.3 percent alcohol, and is one of a number of very fine wines produced by this under-rated producer, a boutique family-run operation that was named as a James Hailliday "Dark Horse" winery in 2014. $25. www.singlefilewines.com

Sebastien Dampt 2013 Chablis

A cracking Chablis - available under screw cap in Australia - from Sebastien Dampt, son of renowned Chablisienne producer Daniel Dampt. This is a relatively inexpensive wine from the appellation but none the less delicious for that. This is a very pure wine, with bright acid, and palate interest has been added by six months on lees and malolactic fermentation. Lemon and other citrus notes are to the fore, along with white peach, with the chardonnay fruit looking very fresh and tense. Made from 45-year-old vines and a lovely companion for grilled flathead fillets, crustaceans and old-fashioned roast pork. Imported by France Soir. $36. www.francesoirwineselections.com.au
   

Mandala 2012 Prophet Pinot Noir

The wines from Mandala, a relatively new producer in the Yarra Valley, have shown immense promise over the past decade. This single-vineyard pinot noir from cool Yarra Junction (Mandala also has a vineyard at Dixon's Creek) not only confirms that potential, it underlines it in thick black marker pen, Made only in outstanding years, this has a compelling freshness and vibrancy to it; perfumed with poached cherry flavours, newly-picked raspberry notes and understated oak all coming together, this is a delightfully light-on-its-feet wine that would once have been labelled feminine - had that term not been outlawed by the police of vinous political correctness. Anyway, this is lovely, speaks of the region and will set you back around $50. www.mandalawines.com.au.