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Even when tasted blind, Glen Hayley's wines under the Kooyong label have the ability to seriously stand out from the crowd. I have loved the 2015 Meres and Haven individual vineyard pinots recently - both of which retail for $76 - but you don't have to spend anywhere near that amount to get a sense of the quality and attention to detail given to all wines in the range from this quality Mornington Peninsula producer. This is an entry level offering, young and enticing, that offers excellent value. It's bright red and vibrant, medium-bodied and red-fruit-driven with mainly older oak very much in the background adding smoky nuances. Appealing acid on the finish, too. Perfect for drinking now. preferably paired with some smoked duck breast. 93/100. $34. www.kooyongwines.com.au.
Viticulturist Lucas Hoorn has worked for Hoddles Creek and Levantine Hill, while Dylan McMahon is the talented winemaker at Seville Estate and together they are producing some impressive wines under the Yarra Edge label, using fruit from a small vineyard at Chirnside Park, on the edge of the Yarra. The vines are 35 years old and the grapes were formerly used by Yering Station. This is a very impressive single-vineyard blend of cabernet sauvignon (70%), cabernet franc (20%) and merlot (10%) that has several elements reminiscent of quality Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux. Herbs and spices, blackcurrant notes, spicy oak, leafy characters and subtle tannins combine well in a wine that is soft and on the palate. Subtle and delicious. $39.
There has been a recent changing of the guard at Macedon Ranges icon Curly Flat with Matt Harrop now installed as chief winemaker. Not only is this an outstanding example of cool-climate chardonnay, it also offers quite spectacular value when compared alongside village Burgundy, for instance. Power and elegance co-exist happily here with a brisk citrus zing and more restrained peachy notes. This is a wine with delightful architecture and plenty of length, allied to tension and poise. It's main strength, however, is that it is downright delicious. $46. www.curlyflat.com.
How good is this? Terrific pinot noir from Beechworth in the foothills of the Victorian Alps that costs a whole lot less than many much-vaunted pinots at extreme price points. This is a wine of lovely balance, it is soft and appealing but hints of spice and florals and quality cool-climate fruit play key roles. Oak is very much in the background. I'd be drinking this is its youth with some barbecued duck or port, and maybe some noodles.
$36. www.brokenwood.com.au.
