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This was one of the standout wines at a recent Treasury Wine Estates new-release media tasting; a single-vineyard Yarra Valley pinot noir of serious style and substance. From the cooler Upper Yarra this is extremely poised and elegant; not a Burgundy Villages imitator but certainly an impressive homage. From a very good vintage, this is impressively aromatic with a ballerina-like light-footed allied to plushness on the palate. Excellent work from winemaker Andrew Fleming, who has let the quality fruit express itself without any interference. Great value at $50. www.coldstreamhills.com.au.
It really is hard to choose a favourite from among the stellar 2016 single-vineyard pinots from Mornington Peninsula standout Kooyong - but the complex and savoury Ferrous just gets the nod in an all-star cast. The ironstone pebbles in the 20-year-old Tuerong vineyard give the wine terrific architecture with the tannins providing the framework in which quality dark cherry fruit characters and hints of spice lead the way with support from largely aged French oak barriques. The fruit here is beautifully layered with earthiness, structure and length. I'm happy to give this 96/100 and to bet most buyers find it too delicious right now to even think of cellaring it. $76. www.kooyongwines.com.au.
There are some very good wines being made at Taylors in the Clare Valley right now; winemaker Adam Eggins is producing winners at several different price points. I was particularly taken by this very classy chardonnay, a vinous prom queen that's a little flashy but a wine of serious beauty. The fruit is a deft blend of white stone fruit and citrus sherbet flavours with lots of length and with quality French oak playing an impressive support role. Crisp and flavoursome and a brilliant match for roast pork and crackling. $40. www.taylorswines.com.au.
This is one of the standouts from an impressive - and affordable - range of certified organic table wines from family-owned Angove, proclaimed as being both vegan friendly and made using minimal preservatives. The fruit used is from the irrigiated Riverland at Renmark, but this is a soft and smoooth wine, with dark berry and plum flavours to the fore and oak playing a minimal support role. It's long and silky, would be great with gourmet hamburgers and offers very good value for $17. www.angoves.com.
