Chardonnay is the king of white grapes. No argument. There is no grape variety to match it when it is handled well, and Clare Halloran and her team at TarraWarra Estate in the Yarra Valley have handled this wine very deftly. Rarely nowadays am I tempted by more than a glass or two of any one wine, but this bottle is empty as I write my notes. It is a wine of impeccable balance with a very high quaffability factor. It is a combination of barrel and tank fermented parcels and has classic cool-climate zingy citrus on the nose; impressive textural interest after 10 months on lees, cashew nut nuances and plenty of length and drive. A poor man's village Burgundy if you like; but I do like this very much. Drink now. Drink lightly chilled; pair with barbecued prawns or old-fashioned roast pork. Great value, too. $28. www.tarrawarra.com.au.