Vasse Felix 2025 Filius Sauvignon Blanc

A quarter of a century ago, sauvignon blanc was all the rage. It is less fashionable nowadays but that means it represents terrific value for those who like the style. This release from a pioneering Margaret River producer is a case in point - a very well-made dry white for under $30. This is less overt than its Kiwi cousins, food friendly and savoury without too much herbaceousness. A portion of skin fermented juice adds interest, as does some fermentation in quality French oak. A very pretty, brisk, aromatic drink with fresh pear flavours to the fore and with a bitey acid finish. Lovely everyday thirst quenching here. Pair with poultry dishes, or maybe some salt and pepper squid. $28. https://www.vassefelix.com.au/

Moss Wood Ribbon Vale 2023 Merlot

Many merlots in Australia are made in a soft and simple style; as easy quaffers. Not so his one from the cabernet masters at Moss Wood in Margaret River. It is full of verve and texturally complex, a nod to the great merlot-led wines of Bordeaux's right bank. More structured than fleshy, this one is firm and impressively complex with some bright acidity allied to serious tannins, aided and abetted by time in French barriques.  We paired this with roast lamb en croute and were well rewarded. $87. https://www.mosswood.com.au/

Tapanappa 2025 The Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay

 

Great vineyards show their mettle in the most difficult of years. The Tiers Vineyard - one of the first planted in the Adelaide Hills - is in the coolest, wettest location in South Australia and is perfectly suited to chardonnay; with a micro-climate similar to that of Burgundy. It generally produces elegant, subtley shaded wines. Except that 2025 was the warmest, driest and earliest vintage veteran winemaker Brian Croser has seen in his 56-year winemaking career. The result is a wine slightly bigger than normal but still reflective of the vineyard. Think nectarine/white peach notes, barrel ferment, subtle oak and yeasty/lees notes - but still with a vibrant acid finish. With the help of early picking, the vineyard conquered the season. Pair with roast pork and crackling. $110. https://tapanappa.com.au/   

Mount Horrocks 2024 Nero d'Avola

Nero d'Avola is a Sicilian grape that is very much at home in Australian conditions. Stephanie Toole planted the variety at Mount Horrocks in the Clare Valley almost 20 years ago - well ahead of the curve - and this new release is bundle of juicy fruit flavours with a savoury edge. Mostly older oak is used to elevate the fruit-forward style. This single-vineyard wine is certified organic and biodynamic, and Toole is obsessive about quality. She says this is "equally compelling now or later". I'd pair with pasta and a hearty ragu, or a beef casserole with herbed dumplings. Excellent quality, $45. https://www.mounthorrocks.com/