Kooyong Clonale 2013 Chardonnay

I am flabbergasted by the consistently quality of the wines Sandro Mosele makes for Kooyong. In blind tastings his wines regularly shine - standing out with their purity, pithiness and precision - so much so that it is often hard to find space to review all of the ones that impress. The Clonale is nominally an entry-level wine but this soars way above many other Australian chardonnays - and certainly most in a similar price bracket. Whole bunch pressed and barrel fermented in French oak (12% new), this has stone fruit and citrus vibrancy but with underlying concentration, nuttiness, flinty minerality, gentle creamy texture and brisk acidity. Very rarely nowadays do I manage to finish a whole bottle of wine. This was a worthy exception to that rule. $33. www.kooyongwines.com.au.