John Duval 2012 Plexus

John Duval was for many years the chief winemaker at Penfolds, crafting Grange, Bin 707 and other Australian wine icons. These days he has his own label and sources fruit from old vineyards in and around the Barossa Valley. This was the wine with which he kicked off his new enterprise a decade ago, a Rhone-style blend of shiraz, grenache and mourvedre. And boy is this new release a cracker. From one of the best vintages in living memory, it has both power and elegance and is approachable now while being cellar worthy. Fifteen months in French oak have added structure and texture to the blackberry and spice notes and the end result tastes like a wine that should command at least twice the price. $40. www.johnduvalwines.com.