Basalt is a tiny biodynamic wine producer at Killarney, on the Great Ocean Road in Victoria, 9km outside the historic and very pretty town of Port Fairy. On a windswept site, Shane Clancey grows riesling, pinot gris, pinot noir and tempranillo, sometimes supplementing his grapes with fruit sourced from inland Henty. I popped into Basalt's rustic and charming cellar door last week and was blown away by the range, but particularly this wine; a blend of Killarney and Drumborg fruit that is the essence of cool-climate riesling; vibrant with lime juice and grapefruit notes, searingly refreshing acid and green apple notes on the palate, which is bone dry. Fabulous drinking for $29. www.basaltwines.com.au.