I caught up with some of the cool kids from the Hunter Valley during the week; Andrew Thomas, Mike de Iullis and Gwyn Olsen, who is regarded as one of the region's brightest rising stars. Her Briar Ridge Dairy Hill Semillon is a cracker but this number - cheaper and simpler - grabbed my attention because of its simplicity and immediate appeal. Made from grapes harvested early (which means just after New Year in the Hunter), this has just 12% alcohol and is disarmingly zesty and racy with a long, line of lean, linear acidity. It may not be a wine for everyone, but if you are looking for a congenial companion for oysters or grilled seafood then this should definitely be on your radar. $22. www.briarridge.com.au.
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