Some Australian shirazes are absolute blockbusters; jam-packed with ripe fruit, new oak and high-octane alcohol levels, If you are looking for one of those wines then you've come to the wrong place. Instead, this a modern style of cooler-climate shiraz for mature palates, made by the very professional team at Shaw+Smith in the Adelaide Hills. It weighs in at 14% alcohol and is supple and stylish, polished and elegant with red fruit characters and pepper/spice characters to the fore rather than intrusive oak. The 2012 vintage of this was named best red wine in Australia at one of those international shows and this fleshy but beautifully structured wine is every bit as good. $44. www.shawandsmith.com.