Ten Minutes by Tractor 2013 Wallis Chardonnay

The year may still be young but I do not expect to taste many better chardonnays over the next 11 months than this exquisite offering from Ten Minutes by Tractor on the Mornington Peninsula. One of three individual vineyard chardonnays at the peak of the winery's pecking order - the others are the McCutcheon and the Judd - this is a wine for those with expensive tastes, probably lovers of fine white Burgundy. This ticks all the cool-climate chardonnay boxes; hand-picked, whole-bunch-pressed, wild yeast fermented and matured in quality French oak. The end result is lithe, like a beautifully proportioned catwalk model. Lean and very elegant this is top notch. $65. www.tenminutesbytractor.com.au