Fetherston 2016 Chardonnay

It is always nice to discover a new wine producer doing impressive things. Even better when those wines are moderately priced. Last year I was very impressed with a Fetherston pinot noir. From the new releases, I was grabbed by this elegant and seriously underpriced chardonnay made from fruit grown at Gruyere in the Yarra. Fetherston is the cool-climate project of Chris Lawrence and Camille Koll, who have widespread wine, food and hospitality experience. They say their aim to produce "wines of great finesse that capture the purity of each vineyard site". This is certainly a very clean and fresh chardonnay (from one of only 154 cases made). It is elegant, brisk and taut with just a hint of spicy new French oak. Food friendly, too. The Fetherston folk say it will cellar well. I say drink it now to enjoy all its subtleties and give it a cheerful 94/100. Put on a Jason Isbell album, grab some pork crackle and all will be well with the world. A warning: this Macon Villages taste-a-like may be hard to find, so head to the website. 
$25. www.fetherstonwine.com.au