This one sings. Somewhere between Frank Sinatra at his cool best and Paul Rodgers of Free in full flight. Alison Krauss once described Rodgers' voice as "incredibly masculine, sexy, hardworking". The first two descriptors work for this wine, the third not. It is effortlessly excellent, a masterful expression of Margaret River cabernet that stood out from a bracket of other top-line wines from name producers. It is medium-bodied and stylish, slightly dusty and very beguiling. My bottle threw a bit of a crust, so it might be worth decanting, but either way you will be rewarded by a world-class wine with fine tannins and shiny fruit. Simply gorgeous. 96 points from me. $85. www.leeuwinestate.com.au
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