Gamay is a delightful grape variety that is sadly under-used in Australia. Best known for Beaujolais and some Loire Valley reds, it offers lighter style drinking and can be enjoyed lightly chilled. Thank goodness for producers like Lyons Will Estate in the Macedon Ranges of Victoria, where Renata Morello makes two different expressions of gamay. This is a vibrant drink now style, with 40% whole bunch, wild ferment, semi carbonic maceration and three weeks on skins adding some palate oomph. Unfined, unfiltered and Vegan-friendly, this an excellent Australian iteration full of youthful vinous joy: crisp with nicely balanced acid across the palate. Pair with anything from a mushroom tart to French onion soup. $50. lyonswillestate.com.au

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