There are some pretty fabulous Australian chardonnays out there at the moment but it is hard to top this one; the flagship white wine of the Holmes a Court family's Margaret River winery. Winemaker Virginia Willcock has been in brilliant form over the past couple of vintages and this is absolutely stunning. Matured in largely new French oak barriques for nine months and given regular lees stirring to add complexity, this is far better than many village Burgundies; stylish with great purity, texture and length. It is a wine that is, quite simply, a thing of beauty, reminiscent of Lionel Messi's Barcelona in full flow. $60.www.vasefelix.com.au.