An immediate candidate for the status of Tasmania’s finest sparkling wine (and therefore Australia’s best bubbly). This may be a “special occasion” wine but it is better than many NV Champagnes at around the same price. It has great power and length but also lots of elegance after four-and-a-half year on lees and 18 months in bottle. It will be made only in the very best vintages and will almost certainly cellar well. $61.