Champagne Thiénot NV Brut

This was one of the stars of a recent tasting of Champagnes from almost all the major producers - and a real surprise given it comes from a Champagne house that was only founded in 1985. It is part of the Alain Thiénot Group, owner of different brands such as Canard-Duchêne and Joseph Perrier. A blend of 45% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir and 20% pinot meunier, this has a delightful freshness to it; it was zingy without in any sense being lightweight. Imported into Australia by Halle Aux Vins in Melbourne, this is floral, lively and delicate in the Billecart-Salmon mould; a wine that's perfect for enjoying as an aperitif. $85. www.halleauxvins.com.au.