Timo Mayer is a loveable, talented eccentric whose wine making is sometimes touched with genius. Best known for his work at Gembrook Hill, Mayer also releases small quantities of hand-crafted, single-vineyard wines (he has just 2.4 hectares under vine) under his own label. He doesn't do back labels, or barcodes and aims to "bring back the funk" to wine. This was one of a stunning array of 2012 pinots that shone ever so brightly at the Yarra Valley Wine Program earlier this week. It is a lovely bright and perfumed wine, like several of its 2012 Yarra counterparts. It is still a tad coltish but it is so full of youthful presence, charm and delicacy that it is almost impossible to resist. Made from fruit grown in the cooler Upper Yarra, this is precise and delicious. I'd snap some up before it sells out - if it hasn't already. $55. www.timomayer.com.au.