I'm a huge admirer of the efforts the Saturno brothers have put into their Adelaide Hills vineyards to produce top quality fruit. This a delightful cool-climate shiraz from a very good vintage. Dark and inky, it boasts black fruit and white pepper on the nose, leading on to a melange of berry flavours, black chocolate and coffee notes with rich but well-integrated toasty oak and impressive tannin architecture. The 18 months this wine spent in new and old French barriques has added complexity and interest and this will almost certainly cellar well for a decade or more while drinking very well right now. Supple and astutely restrained - a great match for a veal roast. $28. www.longviewvineyard.com.au.