There are many regions of Australia now producing outstanding chardonnays: Tasmania, Tumbarumba, the Yarra, Mornington Peninsula and Adelaide Hills are all excellent sources - and Orange also has to be taken into consideration on the evidence of this outstanding single-vineyard wine made from fruit grown in the high country Balmoral vineyard. There's plenty of varietal chardonnay flavour here but also some real finesse. It's a bit like a vinous Billy Slater, impressively brisk with stone fruit and citrus notes, flinty mineralityy, judicious oak treatment and cool-climate racy acidity. I liked it a lot; my wife liked it even more. So we argued about who had the last glass! $32. www.swingingbridge.com.au.