Reach for the thesaurus. This is about as close to wine perfection as it gets. Rich, unctuous and concentrated; a classic Australian fortified. Collectors of fine and rare wines will be captivated by a new range of fortifieds released by Seppeltsfield that have been “held in secret” by generations of winemakers at the historic Barossa Valley cellars. The Paramount Collection, utilising reserve parcels dating back as far as 1922, features two Australian sherry styles (now known as aperas), a tokay and a muscat. The parcels used in these blends were put away by winemakers over the years and were not originally designed for sale but have now been hand-bottled in very limited quantities. This DP64 Tokay, made from muscadelle grapes, is a blend of many vintage years but maintains an average age of 32 years. It has amazing intensity with espresso coffee, dark chocolate, prune and rancio characters. So rich that one glass is enough. 99/100. $699 in a special display box. www.seppeltsfield.com.au.