I was hugely impressed by the new range of wines from Indigo Vineyard in the Alpine valleys of Victoria (smart new labels, too). Indigo primarily sells fruit to labels including Brokenwood and Seville Estate but also produces small parcels under its own label, which are vinified at Brokenwood. The cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and viognier all sang (and offer excellent value in the $30-$35 bracket), but this was my favourite voice, a beautifully constructed pinot noir that hits all the right notes with concentrated sweet fruit notes allied to earthy tones and a real elegance on the finish. A wine of complexity and interest with sensible alcohol levels (13.3%). Distributed by L'Atelier and well worth seeking out. $35. www.indigovineyard.com.au.