Giuseppe Valli, an Italian with a wine-making background, emigrated to New Zealand in the 1870s. Generations later his great grandsons Grant Taylor and and Tim Valli are making stunning wines from vineyards in north and central Otago. This is an absolutely gorgeous pinot noir from Waitaki, the new wine frontier in North Otago. It has complexity and power, savoury and sweet characters and a line of minerality. It's downright delicious and was my favourite of four Valli regional pinots, just edging out another cracker from Gibbston, ahead of Bannockburn and Bendigo, all which were impressive statements of terroir. With both concentration and balance, this is disarmingly easy to drink. It is imported by Negociants and I scored it 95 points. $70. www.valliwine.com.