Jeffrey Grosset is Australia's riesling guru; his wines are always reliably excellent and fetch commensurate prices. They usually sell out within a few months of release. The taut Polish Hill Riesling ($55ish) is Grosset's flagship, and most expensive riesling by some margin, but this year I prefer the Springvale, a single-site wine sourcing fruit from an estate vineyard at Watervale. This is simply stunning - and certainly more approachable than the Polish Hill in its youth. It ticks all the boxes for world-class Clare riesling with citrus blossom aromas, delightful minerality and structure, length and a crisp acid finish. Chalky, slatey, lemony, or plain delicious. You try to choose just one descriptor. Brilliant. $40. www.grosset.com.au.